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I agree that we are at an early stage, however I do not think it is as early as many seem to portray. Apple has had their app store for over 3 years, a long time in tech. Android is just starting, but seems to want to follow similar route.
Windows Mobile, Palm, Symbian and others have had all kinds of apps available in software repositories other than some "company site", and despite some peoples dire warnings of doom and disaster by using "non-approved" app stores to obtain apps, I don't remember too many tales of actual malware being spread.
Perhaps the freedom to release your works yourself if you desire, or through other "mobile friendly sites", like the old shareware days (remember those?) would be of more benefit, allowing the developer to choose how their apps are delivered.
If your app is good, and ZDNet wants to include a shareware version, to use an example, that could result in great exposure and potential sales.
Maybe it's time to drop the "App Store" model and do something better.