Discussion on:

10 tips for troubleshooting PC system slowdowns

Another cause of a slowdown is those who perform a RAM upgrade and are using customized Virtual Settings. Set to System Managed or increase your virtual settings.

I don't know how many times I've checked virtual memory settings while doing a clean and tune and found that they were set to values that either didn't allow a large enough swap file or made the minimum size much larger than it needed to be which just wastes disk space. I know that properly tuned virtual memory settings are supposed to increase performance slightly but lately I've just been going with the system managed size and letting Windows worry about it. I haven't really noticed any difference in performance with most of the machines I've set that way compared to trying to find the optimal values to be set manually.

As someone who "knows enough about computers to get myself into trouble", it sometimes seems like a complete mystery to know where to turn to for help and how to know when you are getting good help.

I have one of the early "slate" Tablets that many people had problems with, which the manufacturer seemed clueless about. The cursor would become erratic, making writing on it illegible - and that was after learning to place windows on the screen so the program would not shut off when the cursor would fly to the upper RH corner. The problem seemed to be caused by EM interference which was dependent on the temp of the machine and voltage being applied. "Fixes" on discussion sites (and my own trial and error) included software that would monitor and prevent erratic cursor movments (offered freely by one fellow who had the problem humself), putting aluminum foil between the screen and the rest of the internal hardware ("how to" step by step pictures on-line), using "NoteBookControl" to monitor temp and adjust voltage, etc.

I imagine this is an impossible question, but I'll ask it anyway. Is there any reliable way to pick a computer pro for help other than word of mouth or trial and error opening the yellow pages and finding out if they can fix your problem? Is there any certification or acknowledgements that the local "computer repair shop" may have acquired that we can check for?

IMO, word of mouth is about the best you'll get - but be aware that some peoples' level of technical knowledge is minimal, therefore praise will be given for resolving the simplest of problems, so word-of-mouth from other tech people is a better form of judgement.

It was proof that you had the basic knowledge of computer maintenance and operating systems. But that was before boot camps and guys renting their names to computer shops devalued the cert.

Word of mouth is probably the best you're going to get.

I would say the amount of years experience can help you narrow down the selection. A good tech should have at least 5 years plus experience in the field of recent experience. The work related experience should all be desktop technician related. If there experience is questionable than that could be a red flag (example if their experience is helpdesk related, network/server related, doesn't mean they know all the ins and out of desktop hardware/software for trouble shooting/fixing problems). I have worked with alot of techs old and young and in my opinion the younger techs are the more knowledgeable with the newer OS's for their experience is more current and recent. Not to say older techs don't have the experience in newer OS's. As far as certs I would think they should have an MCP in XP or Win7. MCDST is good but that is more online for helpdesk. MCSE & MCSA are good as well. A+ cert just means they can build a computer but it is not necessary. A good tech can fix just about any issue and the ones that don't know are going to pitch to you to re-image the system (reload Windows from scratch). Sometimes re-imaging is the better option if you have alot of spyware and other issues for it can take longer to clean your system than to re-image. But also be aware that not all techs can build out your system properly and may not install all the right software/drivers from the manufacture's website and rely on Windows drivers for everything and you can loose some functionality especially in laptops. All in all word of mouth and reviews from websites for local computer shops should help.

First of all, a true expert will never refer to himself as an "expert" because... well, somewhere there's always bound to be someone you can learn from or who knows more than you.

Be that as it may, my friends and clients often refer to me as an "expert" so let me tell you a few things:

1) I have an A+ certification, I'm Dell certified and IBM credentialed me back in the day. I know NOTHING about tablet Pc's (yet). But I'd also be the first to tell you that. I would never allow myself to be blind-sided by a "hardware surprise" when I got to your site or your home to fix your personal computer. I always ask all about your hardware, your o/s and what apps you use blah-blah-blah. Anyone who DOESN'T ask you that (and perhaps more) isn't the right person for you.

2) I've been in the business for over 15 years. That being the case, it would be a little strange if I had NOT picked up a few certifications or "expert" nods along the way. But by the same token, having spent most of that time "in the field" (in the trenches of situations that weren't working when I got there, but were when I left...) I certainly haven't taken the time to upgrade every certification, renew every credential or spend hours in a classroom learning every new technology that comes along. I have my job and I have my external clients. I like to stay one step ahead of them in terms of their needs, questions and possible directions for their futures. But I do not know and understand --nor do I claim to-- every off-shoot of the open platform standards, every new flavor of Java and other web technologies or even learn every incremental upgrade to products I/we use every day. IT'S JUST NOT PRACTICAL. So to expect that the expert you seek has been schooled, trained, certified and signed off on every technology you currently employ is somewhat unrealistic.

3) When you're dealing with hardware, especially newer market offerings (such as tablet PCs) you're absolutely right to pause and take a deep breath before calling "just anyone." Personally, I would start with the manufacturer-blessed technicians, if not the manufacturer itself. This goes double for newer toys since --hello?!!-- they're probably still under some kind of a warranty anyway. A warranty which, may I point out, goes entirely VOID-ola if a non-franchised or non-certified person does as much as open the cover!!

In short, don't feel shy about asking when and under what circumstances the tech you're thinking of inviting over has worked on the hardware you're having problems with. If he owns the same technology, or can describe a similar problem he's run across and successfully troubleshot/fixed then you're probably okay. I can only speak for myslef (though hopefully am NOT) but the last thing I want is a non-success with a new client. If I don't have a really good idea what's wrong and how to fix it, I'll generally tell the caller I don't think I'm the right tech to be speaking with. I would think anyone else in my profession would feel the same.

Hope this helps,

Sam French

Sam speaks the truth. I have been in various realms of IT for over 24 years, and I learn something new every day and from every client. The one place where I do disagree a little is the older v younger techs. I truly do not think age matters a whit. In fact, many of the younger techs think they know everything BECAUSE they went to some sort of school. Their ability to observe and assess environments, ask questions, draw on a store of experience to evaluate a particular situation, and perhaps most importantly work well and productively with clients, is often nil.

I have walked into data centers where the managing sys admin was panicked about a blown PSU only to find someone had dislodged a power cord. I am presently working with the IT department of a government agency who cannot tell me what the RAID cfg of the storage is, what the server OS is, or what version of Exchange my client is using, and they refuse to grant me admin rights until I hand over a proprietary work product, which I have no intention of doing. That team is infested with truly bad techs who have no idea how to do even the most basic PD.

But I digress...A great tech knows how little they know, asks lots of INTELLIGENT questions, treats their clients with respect, knows where to find answers, and as stated before learned something new every day, from every client, and from every new situation.

I see people disagree with my opinion and that is fine. Let me elaborate more. Like I have mentioned I have worked with alot of techs old and young and some that are really good and others that haven't been exposed to as much problems or don't have that much experience and for someone like me who knows better can tell just by working with them on what level of expertise they are at. I have trained many of techs at every job I have had. With that being said I have work with techs who had alot of certs and some that don't and some that had degrees and others that don't and a mixture of the two. I usually find the older techs are the ones with the degrees that they got 10+ years ago when at the time the only Windows was Win 3.3 or Win 95 and unless they have taken good classes and I emphasize on good because I had taken a Win7 class when it was still in the beta and didn't really learn anything new for what they taught in class I had already picked up on my own or read up on some posts online. So if you are not keeping up with the times you really have no advantage over the younger techs who are learning the recent OS in school and getting certed up. We can agree to disagree this is just my opinion.

This is purely situational. I agree with many of the point @MytonLopez gives because there is a clear difference is years of experience, but like some of the other posters have stated if they don't have the applicable experience 10+ years will not provide any value. I am 25, and have been consulting part-time for residential and commercial clients for 5 years, and went full time for the last 2 years. The key to finding a good consultant is reputation. I've built my business solely on word of mouth advertising, but most consultant will not. You're best bet is to ask your family or friends who they would trust. You could see who is a member of the local Chamber, BBB Accredited, etc... but at the end of the day if you have no recommendations call them and get a feel for their opinion.

If they are an "expert" in everything politely hang up the phone and call the next person, or if they aren't certified ask them why. You need to ask the questions to "certify" them in your mind as capable. Is this fool-proof? No, there are some slick talkers, but you can call one person and then call another. You will quickly get a feel for who you are most comfortable with. You are hiring them, and every good consultant is aware of this fact!

Good luck!
Clay

No consultant wants a bad first meeting with a new client. They're career-limiting situations, embarrassing, and ultimately a waste of everybody's time. That's why I always clarify as much as I can ahead of time. If it's a fix the client needs, I outline step-by-step what I propose to do. I also tell them how many times (in rough numbers) I've seen the situation they're in before and what the odds of success are. If it sounds like a hardware issue and the machine might still be under warranty, I tell them to go directly to the manufacturer, do not pass GO, do not spend $200 unless you have to.

I wouldn't take a job I wasn't confident I could handle.

When the job is done, I encourage the person for whom I've just worked to feel free to give my name to any of his/her friends and to keep me in mind for any future jobs (s)he may need somebody for.

True, when one's data is at risk or you're talking about someone's PERSONAL COMPUTER, very few souls are going to whip out the yellow pages and pick a consultant from there. Not without speaking to several people and establishing some sense of comfort and confidence.

More than likely, the person will phone a friend or two and ask, "Who was that guy who fixed your PC?" or "Do you know of anyone who can...?" Even if you get referred, you're still going to want to establish that you're able to do the job they need you for.

Fifteen years of Windows experience doesn't buy you a day of Linux or Mac expertise. So a claim like "10+ Years in the Industry" doesn't tell anyone searching for a tech squat. Most people shopping for a technician (including many HR representatives) don't know what they need or how to go about asking the right questions. If they're in a crisis situation, it's also quite possible they don't know how to accurately describe the problem. You need to ask questions and give answers in the same conversation. You need to be technically accurate without speaking Cantonese. It's a schmooze and a selling job --on/of yourself. Just make sure you don't sell the wrong product and end up getting "returned." That only pisses the client off and embarrasses you.

As an IT person who has worked in this field for over 15 years I usually do not charge unrealistic fees, this is a good sign. If they charge over the top fees, forget it-also if they charge too little-reasonable is the way-say $60.00 call out, and $40-50 bucks an hour plus materials. Talk to the prospective IT assistor/engineer and get a feel if they are confident without being cocky, do not try to 'blind you with science' but speak in good english terms.
Avoid braggart tech-speak jockey's, look for maturity of disposition.
Like all service providers, people go back to the good ones, seek out a good reputation.
Good luck.

Thank you to all of those who responded. Multiple comments have been helpful.

I'm amazed no-one has pulled the author up on his statements regarding bad sectors.

There are a couple of levels of sector remapping that go on. Hard drives all have spare sectors, and if a bad sector is detected the drive firmware will move the data to one of the spares, and mark that sector as bad. This all happens silently.

Windows does the same when it detects a bad sector, only this time you get to see it in the output of chkdsk. By the time Windows has detected a bad sector it means all of the spare sectors have been reallocated. If you see any bad sectors in chkdsk results, it's time to replace your drive. Definitely do not watch the bad sector count go up and up as the auther suggests, and slowly start to suspect an issue.

Clickety Clack, Clunk . . . . . . . . .
is more like the sound of bad sector remapping

when the drive S.M.A.R.T. system detects one
it goes offline to attempt the remap
WD consumer drives are especially bad for going completely offline into what they call "Deep Cycle Recovery" to attempt to remap the bad sector
and the whole time windows flips out and fills the event viewer with
Disk Error logs of various sorts
ie.
a> The device, \Device\Hardkisk_, has a bad block.

b> The system failed to flush data to the transaction log. Corruption may occur.

c> The driver detected a controller error on \Device\RaidPort0. (or whatever controller)

d> An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk_\DR_ during a paging operation.

e> Application popup: Windows - Device Timeout : The specified I/O operation on \Device\Harddisk_\DR_ was not completed before the time-out period expired.

etc.

I've never seen a system remap or attempt to remap any bad sector(s) without;
- a soft crash where everything seems frozen for a short period or and extended period of time
or it seems to take forever to load certain user files
or
- a hard crash where a BSOD occurs because the bad sector is in the pagefile or in a locked in use system file, or the MFT etc.

All the symptoms you mentioned are BIOS or OS level. When the firmware remaps a sector with one of it's spares, it has no need to report the issue to the OS (and I don't believe has any mechanism to even if it wanted). There's no error, and the data was stored successfully to the drive so clearly there was nothing lost or corrupted, and therefore no chance of a BSOD et al.

When the hard disk overheats in a laptop, it may appear that the laptop has 'frozen' but then may come back after a while. I've used the speedfan utility (almico.com) to monitor the hard disk temp after I noticed Spinrite 6 pausing "due to overheating" message when a Dell C600 reached 53C on the internal temp sensor on the laptop's hard disk. I pulled the battery and cd-rom modules, put the battery into the right side and positioned some small fans to blow across the hard disk. This reduced the temp to 30C rather quickly and spinrite completed. A full norton AV scan on other Dell laptops I've had will easily raise the temp into the upper 40C range. Putting a small fan blowing across the laptop has always reduced the temp of both the harddisk and core/video temps.

Not bad. Pretty well written and you covered most of the common problems for pc slowdowns

This article is written wrong or the numbering is backwards. The first things people should consider when a system starts running slow is not to check and see if its overheating. That is a fairly rare occurrence. While it doesn't come out and directly "rank" these issues, but by numbering each point it does so indirectly.

There are so many issues with this blog post I do not even know where to begin.

First, the order of issues is completely out of whack. You start with simple, non-hardware based issues, after ensuring that fans are running and all the intakes and outflows are clear. Especially for a home user, going straight to a CPU or RAM issue is flat out stupid. Number 10 should be number 1 (although adjusting for "best" performance is really not a good idea. A REAL tech does a custom adjust, so that things like smooth screen fonts are not blown away), number 8 number 2, etc.

You do not even mention fragmentation until number 8. Are you aware that a seriously fragmented hard drive runs harder because of the way FAT and NTSF "manages," and I use that term loosely, files, thus reducing drive life, and that a disk does not have to be nearly full to be badly fragmented?

You do not mention putting dedicated heat sinks on the RAM.

A novice should never screw around with thermal paste (and there are different types). The norm, alas, is to OVER apply. Do you know how it is supposed to work? It is designed to spread, with the pressure of the heat sink and the heat of use, to a layer so thin it fills the microscopic gaps between the proc and the heat sink, producing an almost perfect mating. Applied in excess, it oozes out and can cause serious damage to the proc and socket.

This makes me wonder why the heck I am not writing articles, and how the heck this author was able to wrangle a forum.

Adjusting the page file is good and bad if you know what you are doing. If you adjust it too low you can cause your computer to slow down more than necessary and adjusting it too high doesn't increase performance. You cannot go wrong with System Managed for it will adjust automatically and if you add RAM later on it will automatically adjust. This is the new default in Win7 and believe in Vista. In XP it was not the default and it auto set the minimum and maximum based on the amount of RAM. The calcuation I beleive is 1.5 the amount of RAM for the minimum and double that amount for the maximum. For example if you have 1GB of RAM in your computer that equals to 1024MB. So 1024 x 1.5 = 1536 which would be the minimum and the maximum is 1536 x 2 = 3072. To have optimal page file setting you would set both the minimum and maximum to 3072 to reserve that space on the HD for when it is needed. This helps for you will have less fragmentation on the drive so the page file is already set to reserve that space. Now if you add RAM and don't adjust accordingly than you run right back into having problems with the system as far as performance. Setting the page file to system managed is a good setting so you don't have to worry about it.

Yeah, I'm going to underscore the last part of the MytonLopez posting:

Setting the MIN and MAX amounts to the same value locks in the physical location of the swap file AND it keeps the walls in place as opposed to this beast that swells and shrinks across non-contiguously occupied disk space.

Also, an old trick that has never failed me is to make sure the MIN/MAX value is evenly divisible by eight. That ensures the allocated space isn't sharing disc sector(s) with anything else.

When changing the values, you should go in, set both values to '0' (i.e., no swap file allocation) and then re-boot. Yes, things will move INCREDIBLY SLOWLY but only for a bit. After you're back inside Windows, set those values correctly then re-boot again. This puts your swap file in a physical location that's not prejudiced by the pre-existing swapfile.

If you have multiple drives, (actual drives, not several partitions on the same physical drive) SERIOUSLY CONSIDER spanning the swap file across the physical drives. The boot drive is always going to use/need between 12-20 megs of swapfile space --and Windows will take it, whether or not it's specified. The system drive (if different) will also take whatever it needs to cache data from minimized apps, etc. But a good rule of thumb is to split the swapfile size into fifths and give 3/5 to the boot drive and the other 2/5 to a secondary drive.

Sam French

I'm always surprised by how people talk about tweaking swap file settings. The only time swap file settings make a difference is when 'useful' pages need to be swapped out of physical memory, then back in again later. If this is happening more than a little, the answer is not to tweak swap file settings. Get more RAM instead. The HDD is an order of magnitude slower than RAM, and processes are halted when pages are on the swap file and need to be paged back in. Now that even basic machines are coming with at least 2GB, and commonly 4GB of RAM I would have thought this issue would have faded away, but apparantly not.

Swap files, Ram asn Disc speeds. ReadyBoost is free in Vista and Win7. You can GooGle options for WinXP.. the mileage varies ... but has been usefull to me.
hth

Please google Engineering Windows 7 and File fragmentation.Read the MSDN article. Windows native defrag was kind of flawed by design and Microsoft knew it. Third party defragmenter applications with more granular control became popular taking advantadge of the flaw. Microsoft payed attention and starting with Vista through 7 the OS handles fragmentation on the fly automatically. No more need to defrag. I install uninstall add and delete files constantly on my Win7 64bit Ultimate rig. Run a file frag analysis and the disc never shows any fragmentation runs great. Wait..maybe microsoft just taught the fragmentation analyzer to lie
The defrag for performance arguments will die when 7 gets rolled out. The Win 7 and Server 2008 R2 integration will be something to look forward to.

Vista and Win7 by default runs defrag weekly every Wednesday at 1 am. Go check your settings and you will see. That is why you HD is not as fragmented as it should. You therory gave me a good laugh. 3rd party defrag utilities are no better than Windows. They just gives you more options but you can always create a new task with a batch file to run custom defrags if needed without having a 3rd party defrag utility. In all actually running defrag is not needed as much as it did back in the days and computers can go months without needed to run a defrag.

How about windows just slowing down until you reload the OS.

Really useful, congratulations.

Take a look in Regedit at:
HKLM/Software/Microsoft/Windows/CurrentVersion/Run
...and the same folder in HKCU.

Get rid of anything that?s not related to your antivirus, printer, sound card, graphics (or any other hardware unless you don?t use it), network tools or database servers.



Also, you may wish to take a look through your scheduled tasks - this is in (Administrative Tools in Vista/7)


And finally, empty your temp folders (put this in a text file and rename the .txt to .bat:

DEL /q "%userprofile%\Cookies\*.*"
DEL /q "%userprofile%\Local Settings\Temp\*.*"
IF EXIST "%userprofile%\Local Settings\History\History.IE5" GOTO HistoryIE5
DEL /q "%userprofile%\Local Settings\History\*.*"
:TempInternet
IF EXIST "%UserProfile%\Local Settings\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5" GOTO ContentIE5
DEL /q "%userprofile%\Local Settings\Temporary Internet Files\*.*"
GOTO UsrComplete
:HistoryIE5
DEL /q "%userprofile%\Local Settings\History\History.IE5\*.*"
GOTO TempInternet
:ContentIE5
DEL /q "%UserProfile%\Local Settings\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\*.*"
DEL /q "%Temp%\*.*"
RD /s /q "%SystemRoot%\$NtServicePackUninstall$"
FOR /f "delims=" %%a in ('dir/ad/b %systemroot%\$NtUninstall*') do (rd /s /q "%systemroot%\%%a")


For Vista/7 users:


DEL /q "%LocalAppData%\Temp\*.*"
DEL /q "%LocalAppData%\Microsoft\Windows\Temporary Internet Files\*.*"
DEL /q "%LocalAppData%\Microsoft\Windows\History\*.*"


See about clearing your page file aswell and if you have any animations on your display settings (especially an animated gif desktop background) get rid.


Finally, Windows XP needs an absolute minimum of 256MB RAM to run itself alone, with all the latest updates. I recommend 1GB for standard users or 2GB for gamers. PC2-6400 or faster is ideal with low latencies (4 or 5), but if you have an old system, PC-3200 should be your choice. Older still, you'll want to overclock your PC-133 to 200 MHz or faster, depending on if your latencies are low (2 or 2.5) and if your processor is stable enough.

Cory, I'm with you!
Clearing out all the dross that gets stored up in temporary files of one kind or another is by far the most efficient way to improve the speed of any Pc more than about a year old!
I've been using this for ages,

cd /d "%userprofile%\local settings\temp\"
rd /s /q .

saved as a batch file in the all users' startup folder, but I think I'll upgrade to yours now!

Cheers!

Jim

I used to be big on deleting temp files too (and still do it before malware removal), but I think its misguided to think it speeds up a system. History, cookies, and cache SPEED up a person's real-world use of the internet.

Lets assume for a moment that the S/W engineers who have been working on browsers for almost twenty years actually know how to code. Going to the well-indexed HDD cache for images for frequently used web pages is WAY faster than waiting for those bits to be dragged off some HDD half-way across the country. (with its own indices, and cache)

Having to re-type URLs and login information for frequently used web pages is way slower than getting it out of your cookie caches & internet history.

Unlike ten years ago, when disk space was much more scarce, most of my customers are sitting on HDDs 1/10 to 1/3 full. I think deleting temp files to 'clean up' is probably a waste of time. I may do it, but I'm honest with myself-- I am just being obsessive compulsive, its not going to make that machine run testably faster.

I'd love to hear hard numbers on this, but if blindly deleting all cookies and history speeds browsing by even 5% I'd be surprised. Just think of have much it slows you down, and annoys you. All of your logins and preferences for certain web sites get lost etc.

I think the technique of deleting temp files is going to join registry "cleaners" on the trash bin of history.

Now on the other hand, running Spybot S&D or CCleaner to clean up privacy invading cookies is fine.

Hard numbers anyone on recent browsers?

I agree. I see no value in killing a user's cookies and history. I can't imagine a quicker way to tick off my customers. Many of them use highly secured websites, and killing their cookies requires them to run through a rather extensive prove-who-you-are process. If I put that in a batch file that ran on startup, I would quickly be fired, or perhaps killed.

imho, PC slow downs on your stated Win7 1 year old PC seem slanted to mostly hardware related issues. IF you had used an 'older' machine (3-10 years) as your refrence, the article has more merit.
Your minor mentioning of [non-mafacturer (added)]legacy software installation issues does have merit. If the software came on the PC from the factory, and the PC was fast on day one, thier software installation can be ignored as a slowness issue.

Slowdown PC issues seen by many technicians are malwares/viruses/PUPs or possibly user installed non-WIN7 compatible [legacy] software. And yes, users usually do not perform routine file and disk maintenance.

Many users do not modify the hardware on thier PCs, so slowness due to hardware & driver misconfigurations are 'usually' not to blame.

Your example of mismatched RAM from the factory is highly unlikely.
I also doubt, seriously, if any PC sold in the last year has a PATA IDE drive installed; it is hard enough to find a new ATA6 IDE drive, in the current marked. Factory set BIOS is another. If it came from the factory with default settings, were unmodified, AND was fast at day one, then BIOS issues are also unlikely.

Overheating issues are of significance, many are due to user ignorance or neglect; e.g. changing BIOS settings, room temperature, PC shoved in a non-vented desk cubby, or floor mounted in a dusty / furry pet environment or placing a notebook [formerly laptop]on one's lap or bed or carpet. However, a one year old desktop or mobile computer from the factory, having a failure from dried thermal paste is almost blasphemous, especially since many mfgs. use silicone thermal pads and thermal epoxy.

I agree with many of your hardware failure issues and resolutions in much older PCs and/or user modified ones.

As I said at the beginning, this article does apply for older, kit form [bundled parts] or user modified computers.

OK--under Windows Services--does anyone out there know what PC Angel is?
It's the only "service" I can't figure out what it is and whether it should be "automatic" or "manual" or "stopped" or what...
My other question: if you change a service from automatic to manual, what tells you you need to turn it on?

There is this thing called "Google;" I know it is a little new and you might not have heard of it since you claim to work in IT and, well, IT people really don't use the internet much (yes, I am being bitingly sarcastic).

I love bleepingcomputer.com, and although I don't usually give this kind of support without being paid for it, because you seem to really need it here is a freebie:
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/startups/PCAngel.exe-17998.html

Now, go forth and edify yourself, and become a little bit self-sufficient.

Thanks for the help and the link to bleepingcomputer.com.

There is not much about this on Google--not enough for me, anyway. I'm NOT a "computer tech"--you'll see I'm listed under "other."

I've the same problem as the one discussed in the "Finding a good computer tech" thread. It's not easy to find a good one. And you are one the other side of the continent or I'd probably call you...

Microsoft and Tech Republic have well documented (over the years) which services should and should not be set to AUTOMATIC, MANUAL & DISABLED respectively. If you're not on a LAN through which you're authenticated as a user, there are a whole BOATLOAD of services you can take off AUTOMATIC.

As for PC Angel, it's an app you (or your IT geek) installs to recover your system following an EXTREME failure. The "service" which runs is basically a sentry which throws an exception when you try to access the "hidden partition" through an upper-level utility like the NT Disk Manager (ships with PRO versions of Windows since 2000, I believe). It also engages the actual app, should you wish to perform a system recovery.

PC Angel is an operating system only recovery utility. It has nothing to do with data you've ever saved or any updates Microsoft or your hardware manufacturer has issued since PC Angel was installed. Remember, you don't always want to take a system back to the state it was in the day it was shipped out the door, expecially if you've upgraded or changed any of the hardware.

I would set the service to MANUAL which, by the way, activates the service when the app is launched --just like most responsibly-coded services. There are SO MANY of them which are set --by default-- to run all the time and you REALLY DON'T NEED THEM.

After all, how many times (in a single computing session) do you need to go off to a software manufacturer's website and check for updates? How often do you think these things are released, anyway? Some of the worst offenders are Real Player, anything from Adobe, Apple services on a PC, license activators from trial software, Java updates, desktop themes, MS-Office source engine, messenger, SharePoint services... The list goes on.

If you're considering disabling any service you don't know 100% about, knock it down from AUTOMATIC to MANUAL for at least one re-boot. And always check the dependencies going both ways before recklessly changing the run-state of any service.

Sam French

I've set it to manual. It is the only service that I was unsure about and did not want to change without knowing... I am NOT a "computer tech" but I don't have access to a good one either, so I'm pretty cautious.

This is the critical information that I could not find with Google, etc. "PC Angel is an operating system only recovery utility".... I absolutely don't want to take the system back to the state it was in the day it was shipped out the door... I spent days getting the crapware off the computer and there are hardware and software mods...

I suspect this program is the reason my recently purchased backup hardware/software doesn't work. (Still using old and more cumbersome backup.)Now I can pursue that...

Thanks again for the very helpful information.

and whether or not you can disable them, check out Blackviper's work at http://www.blackviper.com/

When in comes to backup software, I cannot over-state the two total advantages of using the Microsoft Backup utility that ships with Windows:

1) you don't have to upgrade to the latest version in order to perform a restore; and

2) it can re-create the backup job from the media itself.

Let's face it, if your computer crashes, you probably don't have the directory that stores all the details about your backup jobs, allowing you to tag the job, select the files and then asks you to insert the appropriate media, etc.

The version of Microsoft's backup the shipped with Vista will actually read a disc you created with MS-Backup back in the days of DOS-3.x.

I don't know why I ever went to anything else --which I did recently, and had to purchase an upgrade before it would even re-create the backup catalog for me.

Learn from my mistake and stick with MS.

Sam French

I've been hesitant to use it on my Vista PC; maybe I better re-think it, before I buy into Acronis. I've been using Norton Partition Magic, but I've never tested the reliability of the image it makes. I've never had a crash that bad (yet).

Western Digital and Seagate [Maxtor + others] has a quite capable free version of Acronis.
Seagate DiscWizard is an OEM version of Acronis True Image.

http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/discwizard

Acronis True Image WD Edition Software, formerly DataLifeGuard,

http://support.wdc.com/product/downloaddetail.asp?swid=119

Both of thes are able to imnage the system drive Wjile in Windows!!! Reading The Fine Manual ... tells all.
I have heard rumors about other Mfgs. getting on the bandwagon, but not verified.
The FREE version is great IF you don't want to do incremental images or mount previous image as read/write.
hth

That is a very good suggestion; I've not updated my OEM drive programs lately and was unaware of that!

It has been my experience that doing it the OEM way is much more reliable; and my drives last 10 years or better, even if horsed pretty hard!

I thank you as well MeadowsPV!!

Clonezilla.

If you can take the system off-line to back it up, it's very reliable. I've never had a Clonezilla backup fail to restore.

from someone I trust!

CNET only has one user review on that one. I never usually go with that little information.

Thanks Nick!