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Especially if you are buying a larger KVM than you need at the moment (point #4). Some manufacturer require that you buy their special cables. Although proprietary cables generally cut down on clutter in the rack, I found they can be expensive or hard to find, especially if you have to buy more after the fact.
so just purchase with all the cables, that way when you roll in a new system, you don't have that "oh crap I forgot to order an extra cable" moment..
You are right, but proprietary cables are also expensive. And if you work in an environment where you have to keep costs down, sometimes you can't buy all the cables at once.
However, its a good idea to see if the manufacturer has a "package deal" that includes all the cables. That gives you everything as a single line item that is harder to be trimmed.
However, its a good idea to see if the manufacturer has a "package deal" that includes all the cables. That gives you everything as a single line item that is harder to be trimmed.
I've found that i have to purchase things from multiple vendors at times to get what i want for the prices i want.. might take a few minutes longer but if you purchase the kvm from one place, and they don't have a package deal, chances are you can find the cables cheaper through one of your regular vendors..
I use a KVM on my work bench to manage whatever client devices I'm working on. A KVM with an integrated hub means one less box on my bench.
A few times it would have been handy when at a client site if I could have used my laptop as a KVM. Remote desktop is all well and good, but not so great when the system won't start. Plus a lot of small operations don't want to leave a monitor hooked to a server all the time.
If you're using racks of servers, you may want to bypass a KVM switch entirely and go with a serial console server.
If you're looking for a desktop KVM switch, though, there's another problem that might arise: how well it handles inputs from the specific keyboard and mouse devices you use. One particular area of concern I have encountered is the case of a mouse and keyboard that come with a single USB dongle for a wireless connection. Some KVM switches -- even those that claim to be able to support that setup -- will work unacceptably badly, such as failing to pass certain keypress events through, unusable levels of lag for mouse events, and so on. Unfortunately, I have not found any solution to this problem other than trial and error.
If you're looking for a desktop KVM switch, though, there's another problem that might arise: how well it handles inputs from the specific keyboard and mouse devices you use. One particular area of concern I have encountered is the case of a mouse and keyboard that come with a single USB dongle for a wireless connection. Some KVM switches -- even those that claim to be able to support that setup -- will work unacceptably badly, such as failing to pass certain keypress events through, unusable levels of lag for mouse events, and so on. Unfortunately, I have not found any solution to this problem other than trial and error.
Regarding OSD, the on-screen display can be extremely useful for KVMs installed in a rack, particularly 8 or 16-port varieties, however for a 2-port or 4-port desktop KVM it's typically not as important since most people can without much effort keep track of what computer is on what port.
Also, something to note is that Windows 7 has a tendency to create huge headache problems with many KVM switches due to the way it frequently polls the display to check on what display is connected and what resolutions are supported. For that reason you'll want to make sure your switch provides a dedicated active DDC/EDID channel to all ports so Windows will always be able to see what display is connected, regardless of what port you're on - that way you can avoid the no-video or desktop resizing issues frequently seen with Windows 7 and KVM switches. Otherwise you can get an EDID emulator that will sort of patch the problem for that one system.
And yeah, non-proprietary cables are ideal so you can use separate VGA (or DVI) and USB cables for custom lengths, if needed - without having to pay nearly $50 to get them from the KVM manufacturer.
Also, something to note is that Windows 7 has a tendency to create huge headache problems with many KVM switches due to the way it frequently polls the display to check on what display is connected and what resolutions are supported. For that reason you'll want to make sure your switch provides a dedicated active DDC/EDID channel to all ports so Windows will always be able to see what display is connected, regardless of what port you're on - that way you can avoid the no-video or desktop resizing issues frequently seen with Windows 7 and KVM switches. Otherwise you can get an EDID emulator that will sort of patch the problem for that one system.
And yeah, non-proprietary cables are ideal so you can use separate VGA (or DVI) and USB cables for custom lengths, if needed - without having to pay nearly $50 to get them from the KVM manufacturer.
1) For each server: Create a high contrast, 1024 x 768 graphic with that server's name, box function(s) and IP address(es) centered. Place those on each server's desktop, as it's wallpaper. That way, your KVM display will always accurately reflect the name of the machine your K, V and M are truly addressing. I use bitmaps (named "thisbox.bmp") that can be effortlessly edited using MS-PAINT (in place, on the server itself) and, though I'm no fan of a cluttered C: root drive, using that location as a server room standard to store each box's particular graphic keeps the editing process simple and stupid.
2) As a backup, I keep a soft-copy simple table, numbered 1-x where x is the last KVM port number, populated with the current box names, functions and IP addresses assigned to KVM switches on my laptop. I print out a new copy after making any changes and put that under the keyboard of each KVM switch. In a worst case scenario with several boxes down, this will tell you which two boxes aren't working faster than anything else. If this is maintained as an ASCII text document, at least one thing will go right in a TRUE worst case scenario.
3) OSD's are a great idea but the more you depend on them, the longer your requirements list for them becomes. And, seriously, how easy is it to forget the uber-quirky keystroke combo you must perform to get into the display name editing mode? ("Was it Ctrl + Alt + LeftShift + F9 or...?") As the feature you use the least, once you're all set up and ready to go, it's the most likely to be forgotten. Moving two boxes around, adding another box to the rack, renaming a box... any of these tasks can render the stored box name data totally useless. It's never long before one, two, six (or more?) switch numbers are mis-labeled making ALL the display names unreliable. Clearing them, of course, is simply a matter of the KVM control box losing power which happens frequently enough to make even the most conscientious server Nazi drop his OSD use.
4) I love KVM's that use male ports on the back of the acutal switch! All you need for cables are standard extension cords which are a lot cheaper, exponentially more available (You can buy them at Wal-Mart, Radio Shack, Best Buy, Office Depot... I've even seen them at Albertson's!) And they come in more lengths than most of the male-male proprietary patch cords you have to buy with many KVM offerings. Resist the temptation to patch two six foot cords together in order to cover 10-12 feet. Spring for a 12 foot cord! (Patches-BAD)
5) If you end up selecting an expensive KVM with 16 ports, you're a fool if you don't buy 16 sets of the longest cables that manufacturer sells. You're also foolish NOT to confirm that any proprietary cables required are at least standardized across that manufacturer's line of KVM's. Yes, cables can be expensive but, as KVM components go, they're the most reliable element of any KVM set-up. You'll have a full set of 16 cables lying around for much longer than any other KVM purchases.
6) Before you cable ANYTHING, do yourself a favor and label both ends of every cord (or group of cords) with port numbers corresponding to the KVM hub port numbers you'll be patching to. To be clear: If your KVM hub has 16 ports, you should have sixteen (sets of) cables, individually labeled at BOTH ENDS with numbers 1-16. Manually tracing cables to/from the hub and the boxes they're connected to is a B*TCH. Also, once populated, KVM port labels can become difficult to read. If, however, you can read the end labels of the cables to each side of a vacant port, it's easy to ascertain the empty port's identity.
7) Before you cable ANYTHING, do yourself another favor: Buy a couple bottles of inexpensive white or yellow nail polish. Swipe the top ("flat") side (or what should be the flat side) of all PS-2 cables. The flat side is the one opposite the two pins sitting close together. (see below)
TOP --- The shells of PS-2 cables should have a flat side.
KVM cables frequently ignore this standard.
_____
o | o
o | o
O O
KVM PS-2 cables are NOTORIOUS for either having totally round end-shells or all shells being square on all sides. The fastest way to kill a KVM cable is to mis-judge the insertion angle while connecting it. The small pins are easily bent or broken. Once that occurs, a common result is the decomissioning of up to three cables (as two PS-2 cables and one VGA cable are often fused together because they're all patching between the same two locales.) The ability to positively identify the "top" of a round PS-2 plug assures it is correctly positioned before you shove it into place.
8) In a perfect world, the purple & green standard would be universally adhered to, yet many sets of KVM cables are way too generic for our own good. The PS-2 ends can all be stark white or pitch black with a small 'K' and 'M' stamped onto the shells or teensy-weensy little keyboard and mouse heiroglyphics you'll NEVER discern between without direct, aggressive, overhead lighting.
When a cable becomes disconnected from an 8"x3" panel with 47 of its 48 ports populated, sure, it's easy to tell where to plug it back in. If any more than one PS-2 cord should fall out of the panel (or if both PS-2 cords need plugging [back] into a particular box) your ability to tell which cord belongs in which port can be SERIOUSLY hampered by the complete lack of available light behind a floor-to-ceiling rack or the obstruction that 48 cables all massed together can create. In addition to the markings recommended in items (6) and (7), establishing a clear difference between the ends of the PS-2 keyboard and PS-2 mouse cables allows you to grab the shell of any disconnected cable and quickly plug it in where it belongs. If your KVM cables are all-white, color the shells of the mouse cords with a green Sharpie. If the cables are all-black, place rings of masking tape around the mouse cords, just below the shells. Do this AT BOTH ENDS before placing a single cable into a single port.
9) When knocking together your requirements list for the KVM hardware you purchase, insist the controller functions be operable from the keyboard itself. You should be able to "wake up" the display, cycle between the boxes and jump to a particular box --all using keyboard presses and/or assignable key combination sequences. Simply having a push-button array on the front of the hub or one of those dials that looks like it should be regulating the flame of a gas stove won't cut it. A single push-button to cycle through the ports can be as obnoxious as a TV remote whose CHANNEL-DOWN button doesn't function, forcing you to press it 123 times to change from channel 7 to channel 5.
The ability to perform KVM controller operations from the keyboard also adds to the possibilities of where you can mount the actual hub. If you don't need the thing within arm's reach, this frees up valuable rackspace real estate for things like your monitor, a pull-out keyboard shelf and an accessible surface over which to run Mr. Mouse.
10) The placement of your KVM hub and the controller which actually directs your keyboard, video and mouse focus between the different ports is VERY IMPORTANT. The hub and controller may be two separate pieces of hardware or they may be combined as a single cadre with a control panel as its front side. Depending upon the number of boxes your KVM array is capable of addressing and the locations & sizes of those boxes, you will have to decide whether the hub/controller belong(s) in the middle or to one side of the boxes it services. As a general recommendation, for a KVM configuration of up to eight boxes, you can place the controller to one side of all eight boxes without issue. Any more than eight boxes all wired to a single KVM switch present logistics problems that are difficult to work around unless you place the controller in a location that's central to its clients.
11) Absolutely mount the KVM hub onto a rack. Sometimes this requires the purchase of accessory mounting brackets you'll need to make sure are either included with the hub/controller or ordered at the same time. All those cables hanging off the back of a lightweight box will drag it onto the floor, or hecka out of reach. Mounting a KVM switch/hub is the only way to ensure it stays in place.
12) Before you disconnect the existing keyboards, monitors and mice:
-0- Disable the screensaver. (Set it to "none.")
-0- Create a power profile that never powers down the monitor, never turns off the
hard discs and never allows the system to go into standby mode. Disable
Hibernation as well.
-0- Enable mouse keys and the on-screen keyboard in the accessibility options.
-0- Set your monitor type to a standard plug and play monitor with a refresh
rate of 60 Hertz
-0- Set each screen resolution to 1024 x 768, 32 million colors
-0- Your command prompt properties should be set for a large cursor, a
windowed display with Quick Edit Mode and Insert Mode both enabled.
2) As a backup, I keep a soft-copy simple table, numbered 1-x where x is the last KVM port number, populated with the current box names, functions and IP addresses assigned to KVM switches on my laptop. I print out a new copy after making any changes and put that under the keyboard of each KVM switch. In a worst case scenario with several boxes down, this will tell you which two boxes aren't working faster than anything else. If this is maintained as an ASCII text document, at least one thing will go right in a TRUE worst case scenario.
3) OSD's are a great idea but the more you depend on them, the longer your requirements list for them becomes. And, seriously, how easy is it to forget the uber-quirky keystroke combo you must perform to get into the display name editing mode? ("Was it Ctrl + Alt + LeftShift + F9 or...?") As the feature you use the least, once you're all set up and ready to go, it's the most likely to be forgotten. Moving two boxes around, adding another box to the rack, renaming a box... any of these tasks can render the stored box name data totally useless. It's never long before one, two, six (or more?) switch numbers are mis-labeled making ALL the display names unreliable. Clearing them, of course, is simply a matter of the KVM control box losing power which happens frequently enough to make even the most conscientious server Nazi drop his OSD use.
4) I love KVM's that use male ports on the back of the acutal switch! All you need for cables are standard extension cords which are a lot cheaper, exponentially more available (You can buy them at Wal-Mart, Radio Shack, Best Buy, Office Depot... I've even seen them at Albertson's!) And they come in more lengths than most of the male-male proprietary patch cords you have to buy with many KVM offerings. Resist the temptation to patch two six foot cords together in order to cover 10-12 feet. Spring for a 12 foot cord! (Patches-BAD)
5) If you end up selecting an expensive KVM with 16 ports, you're a fool if you don't buy 16 sets of the longest cables that manufacturer sells. You're also foolish NOT to confirm that any proprietary cables required are at least standardized across that manufacturer's line of KVM's. Yes, cables can be expensive but, as KVM components go, they're the most reliable element of any KVM set-up. You'll have a full set of 16 cables lying around for much longer than any other KVM purchases.
6) Before you cable ANYTHING, do yourself a favor and label both ends of every cord (or group of cords) with port numbers corresponding to the KVM hub port numbers you'll be patching to. To be clear: If your KVM hub has 16 ports, you should have sixteen (sets of) cables, individually labeled at BOTH ENDS with numbers 1-16. Manually tracing cables to/from the hub and the boxes they're connected to is a B*TCH. Also, once populated, KVM port labels can become difficult to read. If, however, you can read the end labels of the cables to each side of a vacant port, it's easy to ascertain the empty port's identity.
7) Before you cable ANYTHING, do yourself another favor: Buy a couple bottles of inexpensive white or yellow nail polish. Swipe the top ("flat") side (or what should be the flat side) of all PS-2 cables. The flat side is the one opposite the two pins sitting close together. (see below)
TOP --- The shells of PS-2 cables should have a flat side.
KVM cables frequently ignore this standard.
_____
o | o
o | o
O O
KVM PS-2 cables are NOTORIOUS for either having totally round end-shells or all shells being square on all sides. The fastest way to kill a KVM cable is to mis-judge the insertion angle while connecting it. The small pins are easily bent or broken. Once that occurs, a common result is the decomissioning of up to three cables (as two PS-2 cables and one VGA cable are often fused together because they're all patching between the same two locales.) The ability to positively identify the "top" of a round PS-2 plug assures it is correctly positioned before you shove it into place.
8) In a perfect world, the purple & green standard would be universally adhered to, yet many sets of KVM cables are way too generic for our own good. The PS-2 ends can all be stark white or pitch black with a small 'K' and 'M' stamped onto the shells or teensy-weensy little keyboard and mouse heiroglyphics you'll NEVER discern between without direct, aggressive, overhead lighting.
When a cable becomes disconnected from an 8"x3" panel with 47 of its 48 ports populated, sure, it's easy to tell where to plug it back in. If any more than one PS-2 cord should fall out of the panel (or if both PS-2 cords need plugging [back] into a particular box) your ability to tell which cord belongs in which port can be SERIOUSLY hampered by the complete lack of available light behind a floor-to-ceiling rack or the obstruction that 48 cables all massed together can create. In addition to the markings recommended in items (6) and (7), establishing a clear difference between the ends of the PS-2 keyboard and PS-2 mouse cables allows you to grab the shell of any disconnected cable and quickly plug it in where it belongs. If your KVM cables are all-white, color the shells of the mouse cords with a green Sharpie. If the cables are all-black, place rings of masking tape around the mouse cords, just below the shells. Do this AT BOTH ENDS before placing a single cable into a single port.
9) When knocking together your requirements list for the KVM hardware you purchase, insist the controller functions be operable from the keyboard itself. You should be able to "wake up" the display, cycle between the boxes and jump to a particular box --all using keyboard presses and/or assignable key combination sequences. Simply having a push-button array on the front of the hub or one of those dials that looks like it should be regulating the flame of a gas stove won't cut it. A single push-button to cycle through the ports can be as obnoxious as a TV remote whose CHANNEL-DOWN button doesn't function, forcing you to press it 123 times to change from channel 7 to channel 5.
The ability to perform KVM controller operations from the keyboard also adds to the possibilities of where you can mount the actual hub. If you don't need the thing within arm's reach, this frees up valuable rackspace real estate for things like your monitor, a pull-out keyboard shelf and an accessible surface over which to run Mr. Mouse.
10) The placement of your KVM hub and the controller which actually directs your keyboard, video and mouse focus between the different ports is VERY IMPORTANT. The hub and controller may be two separate pieces of hardware or they may be combined as a single cadre with a control panel as its front side. Depending upon the number of boxes your KVM array is capable of addressing and the locations & sizes of those boxes, you will have to decide whether the hub/controller belong(s) in the middle or to one side of the boxes it services. As a general recommendation, for a KVM configuration of up to eight boxes, you can place the controller to one side of all eight boxes without issue. Any more than eight boxes all wired to a single KVM switch present logistics problems that are difficult to work around unless you place the controller in a location that's central to its clients.
11) Absolutely mount the KVM hub onto a rack. Sometimes this requires the purchase of accessory mounting brackets you'll need to make sure are either included with the hub/controller or ordered at the same time. All those cables hanging off the back of a lightweight box will drag it onto the floor, or hecka out of reach. Mounting a KVM switch/hub is the only way to ensure it stays in place.
12) Before you disconnect the existing keyboards, monitors and mice:
-0- Disable the screensaver. (Set it to "none.")
-0- Create a power profile that never powers down the monitor, never turns off the
hard discs and never allows the system to go into standby mode. Disable
Hibernation as well.
-0- Enable mouse keys and the on-screen keyboard in the accessibility options.
-0- Set your monitor type to a standard plug and play monitor with a refresh
rate of 60 Hertz
-0- Set each screen resolution to 1024 x 768, 32 million colors
-0- Your command prompt properties should be set for a large cursor, a
windowed display with Quick Edit Mode and Insert Mode both enabled.
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