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1) Don't build a PC because it will be cheaper....
Dell/IBM/HP buy 10s of thousands of pieces of anything at a time. They get discounts - especially on the operating system. But they often shop for the lowest price and the minimum specification. Power supplies are one area that the manufacturers cheap out on, and you can find out that if you buy a major brand PC then add another HD, another CDRW or DVD Rom and a new high end video card, you won't be able to power them all.
Build your own PC when you want to have control of what you build and go for the best parts you can afford.
2) Total watts are not the only factor in a power supply. $20 500 watt PSUs may look attractive but a bad PSU can ruin an expensive MB and will likely be noisy and run hot. Look for good name brands over price. A 400 watt high end brand can outperform a cheap 500 watt PSU.
3) Your PC is as fast as your weakest link. If you are running graphics applications, then having a fast processor is not necessarily as important as having a fast video card. You have to look at the apps you want to run, and what you need. Gamers often have very specific requirements.
4) RAM is one of the least expensive component to buy - go for lots of RAM. I typically put in 2 GB now.
5. You can never be too cool. If you think you might ever overclock get as many fans as you can fit.
Thats just a starting point.
James
Dell/IBM/HP buy 10s of thousands of pieces of anything at a time. They get discounts - especially on the operating system. But they often shop for the lowest price and the minimum specification. Power supplies are one area that the manufacturers cheap out on, and you can find out that if you buy a major brand PC then add another HD, another CDRW or DVD Rom and a new high end video card, you won't be able to power them all.
Build your own PC when you want to have control of what you build and go for the best parts you can afford.
2) Total watts are not the only factor in a power supply. $20 500 watt PSUs may look attractive but a bad PSU can ruin an expensive MB and will likely be noisy and run hot. Look for good name brands over price. A 400 watt high end brand can outperform a cheap 500 watt PSU.
3) Your PC is as fast as your weakest link. If you are running graphics applications, then having a fast processor is not necessarily as important as having a fast video card. You have to look at the apps you want to run, and what you need. Gamers often have very specific requirements.
4) RAM is one of the least expensive component to buy - go for lots of RAM. I typically put in 2 GB now.
5. You can never be too cool. If you think you might ever overclock get as many fans as you can fit.
Thats just a starting point.
James
Yes you can overcool! On my first Athlon system, I did just that. I had a monster CPU cooling system, seven 120mm case fans, dual power supply fans, heatsinks and fans on my memory, and even heatsink and fans on the chipset. To make a long story short the computer would start up at around 60 degrees and then in about ten minutes be down in the upper forties, at which time it would lock up or reboot. Computers run very comfortably at arounf 65 degrees (F), but really sould not opperate below that. ICs have ratings for temp, voltage, and vibration - the stuff on consumer motherboards are not made for harsh environments.
That is the WORST advice ever. Computers can run at extremely low temps. There are people who cool their CPUs at BELOW FREEZING using thermal-electrical cooling.
What probably happened to your system was you used more watts/voltage than your PSU could handle.
What probably happened to your system was you used more watts/voltage than your PSU could handle.
I have to agree with rohcky. I am a fairly avid gamer and high end PC enthusiast. There are numerous sites on the internet devoted to PC cooling and numerous people running PCs in subfreezing conditions, although this also adds other issues such as condensation, which have to be addressed.
I would also like to put more emphasis on case selection. The case is the singlemost important decision concerning cooling. You need to have a case large enough to accomidate any and all hardware you plan to put into your PC, now and future upgrades, while maintaining enough open space to promote good airflow.
Another point to make about airflow is proper placement of fans. I agree with the original poster's idea of adding a case fan, but where should you put it once you have it? A good rule of thumb is "in through the front, out through the rear". You already have at least one exaust fan in the rear in the power supply, so I would place the the additional fan in the front of the case, sucking air into the case, preferably blowing air across the area your hard drives are located in.
Remember, if you are using air cooling, you will never get components any cooler that the ambient temperature of the air being used to cool them. So, the better air exchange you have occurring, the cooler your temps will be.
I would also like to put more emphasis on case selection. The case is the singlemost important decision concerning cooling. You need to have a case large enough to accomidate any and all hardware you plan to put into your PC, now and future upgrades, while maintaining enough open space to promote good airflow.
Another point to make about airflow is proper placement of fans. I agree with the original poster's idea of adding a case fan, but where should you put it once you have it? A good rule of thumb is "in through the front, out through the rear". You already have at least one exaust fan in the rear in the power supply, so I would place the the additional fan in the front of the case, sucking air into the case, preferably blowing air across the area your hard drives are located in.
Remember, if you are using air cooling, you will never get components any cooler that the ambient temperature of the air being used to cool them. So, the better air exchange you have occurring, the cooler your temps will be.
I find that reliability is the key thing . Buy quality parts and spend the extra dollars and have no hardware problems. You dont see them back. I build quite a few and always get top gear, and it does not add that much to the finished price, and people come back, and they are easy to upgrade
Did everyone read this?
I put together my own PC last year, and did not follow this advice. I ended up with a PSU and case where the front usb/audio ports were so cheap as can be, and the PSU unit would not shut down internally. And when you have problems like this when putting all the STUFF together for the first time, it can be very frustrating. I still went to ebay, and got a decent PSU for $30 bucks, from a well-known Canadian PSU maker, and it's done fine as long as I do not play High-End Video Games all day (I still get that same old smell from AMD even though every part in it is New). I blame the inadequate power coming into my apartment from the cheapass apartment manager who knows their a power problem, but won't do a thing about it.
Anyway, If I had to do it all over again, I would of just used my older ATX case, and purchased front audio/usb Card Reader and placed this in my DVD/CD slot on my case. Then bought a very nice PSU, and saved the 50 Bucks I spent on the cheap case/PSU combo crap if saving a buck is partially your goal.
I put together my own PC last year, and did not follow this advice. I ended up with a PSU and case where the front usb/audio ports were so cheap as can be, and the PSU unit would not shut down internally. And when you have problems like this when putting all the STUFF together for the first time, it can be very frustrating. I still went to ebay, and got a decent PSU for $30 bucks, from a well-known Canadian PSU maker, and it's done fine as long as I do not play High-End Video Games all day (I still get that same old smell from AMD even though every part in it is New). I blame the inadequate power coming into my apartment from the cheapass apartment manager who knows their a power problem, but won't do a thing about it.
Anyway, If I had to do it all over again, I would of just used my older ATX case, and purchased front audio/usb Card Reader and placed this in my DVD/CD slot on my case. Then bought a very nice PSU, and saved the 50 Bucks I spent on the cheap case/PSU combo crap if saving a buck is partially your goal.
as were the discussions generated by the article. Thank you very much.
Maybe your next article(s) could break down each step into more detail. Then you could possibly go into the actual mechanics of ASSEMBLY. Just a couple of brain STORMS, there...LOL!
Thanks again!!!
Maybe your next article(s) could break down each step into more detail. Then you could possibly go into the actual mechanics of ASSEMBLY. Just a couple of brain STORMS, there...LOL!
Thanks again!!!
Cheap $5 fans? eek!
I have replaced or pulled out more cheap $5 fans than I can count, why? Because they use sleeve bearings and are almost guaranteed to to start buzzing loudly within 6-18 months as the bearings destroy themselves, spend an extra $5 and get a 80 or 120mm ball bearing fan atleast.
Steve
I have replaced or pulled out more cheap $5 fans than I can count, why? Because they use sleeve bearings and are almost guaranteed to to start buzzing loudly within 6-18 months as the bearings destroy themselves, spend an extra $5 and get a 80 or 120mm ball bearing fan atleast.
Steve
Many of the responders have hit the mark the ?Case? is the most important item on the menu, because you will have issues with adequate cooling, device storage, add-on accessories, and adequate access to components. As a hardware enthusiast and beta tester, I have had the opportunity to sample a majority of case designs for weak and or strong points. My overall preference is for screw-less style where IDE devices (i.e., harddrives or CD ROM drives) mount on latched slide rails that allows for quick removal or RAID hot swap capabilities without need of a screw driver, but the component cards have sturdy screw mounting. Cases that offer snap-in and go cooler fan additions; power supply weight support bracing with the normal case screws; adjustable case feet that provide flexible weight distribution; lockable front panels to keep some form of unwanted access to exposed components; sturdy case metals that take the pressure and last but not least a selection ?Creative Styles / Color? options. For the reason I say shop around, but to get an idea where your juices flow try this website (http://www.chieftec.com/products/products.htm). There are numerous sites devoted to a variety and price and even discontinued stocks or Specials. The right case purchase can break your wallet stitching, if you don?t do your pricing research ranging $60 to $200. Some are sold without power supplies (psu?s) if you desire. Power supplies units with low wattage are less than $20 cheap but be smart, if you are an equipment monkey start with 450w and go up, but be prepared to have to buy more than one psu , til you get it right.
Determining which Computer Processing Unit (CPU) is daunting task and I for one cannot help you with the decision except for highlighting some of the differences between the two. The first major point to make is that neither is interchangeable with each other?s motherboard types and CPU socket types. Most major motherboard manufacturer?s design and produce boards for both CPU brands. It is all about the competitive business to keep customers happy. I for one am strictly a AMD fan because of my need to change CPU processors speeds just by changing to faster speed processor and using the same socket interface (other words: Fresh Socks same Shoes). At one point in time when Intel was the GOD, and AMD was a mere fledgling offering a cheap alternative and a somewhat competitive edge to attain the speeds necessary to play graphics intensive video games and many Office suite applications. Nowadays they (AMD) are a serious threat to the only GOD (Intel) status. The choice is yours.
If you plan to build according to the cash in your wallet, thinking less than x64 bit processors or designated by Front Side Bus (FSB) speeds, you can have a still competitive system at modest price reduction. The need for TOO MUCH SPEED can be costly. Basic speed criteria in terms for a system are: AGP and or PCI-Express (Video cards), DDR or DDR2 (RAM memory), Parallel ATA or Serial ATA Hard Drives. To learn more details about the terms visit: (http://pcworld.about.com/news/Aug112004id117331.htm)
Note: The latter are the Fastest of speed accessory options so prices will rise accordingly to the Highest Speed.
Building your own does not include Software, but if you have it then your total experience of building is worth every minute of the investment towards the ?learning? rewards.
If you plan to build according to the cash in your wallet, thinking less than x64 bit processors or designated by Front Side Bus (FSB) speeds, you can have a still competitive system at modest price reduction. The need for TOO MUCH SPEED can be costly. Basic speed criteria in terms for a system are: AGP and or PCI-Express (Video cards), DDR or DDR2 (RAM memory), Parallel ATA or Serial ATA Hard Drives. To learn more details about the terms visit: (http://pcworld.about.com/news/Aug112004id117331.htm)
Note: The latter are the Fastest of speed accessory options so prices will rise accordingly to the Highest Speed.
Building your own does not include Software, but if you have it then your total experience of building is worth every minute of the investment towards the ?learning? rewards.
While video ram is of some concern when choosing a video card, it is often more important to look at the other functions that the card supports, such as what version of pixel shader is it using, how many vertices does it produce, does it support hdr in apps.
If you produce anything that is graphically intensive (movies, games, apps that redraw at alarming rates because of complex animations, etc, etc) then typically you want something with pixel shader 2.0 or higher, many millions of vertices, hdr support and over 400mhz on teh front side bus.
Avoid cards with "LE" and the ilk.
In ati and Nvidia cards you will always be better off in aquiring a "600" series or higher card. eg: nvidia 7600, 7950, 8800 as opposed to 6510LE (on board sharing the cpu) or 7300 types which if you're a gamer you would likely already know. If you want good advice on buying video cards, it is always more beneficial to speak with a gamer or a cad person as opposed to IT people.
no offense.
If you produce anything that is graphically intensive (movies, games, apps that redraw at alarming rates because of complex animations, etc, etc) then typically you want something with pixel shader 2.0 or higher, many millions of vertices, hdr support and over 400mhz on teh front side bus.
Avoid cards with "LE" and the ilk.
In ati and Nvidia cards you will always be better off in aquiring a "600" series or higher card. eg: nvidia 7600, 7950, 8800 as opposed to 6510LE (on board sharing the cpu) or 7300 types which if you're a gamer you would likely already know. If you want good advice on buying video cards, it is always more beneficial to speak with a gamer or a cad person as opposed to IT people.
no offense. 
I agree with all the advice given, I just want to expand on a couple of important features.
My current computer sits along side my desk. I built a small platform to raise it up about six inches making it easier to reach the controls. The new mid tower case I just ordered has the power switches about a third of the way up from the bottom. It also has two USB, a fire wire, headphone and mic connectors on the front panel at the top of the case so they're easy to access.
The power supply should of course handle your needs, but it should also have enough head room for potential add-ons later. You also DO NOT want to be running your power supply at max, if you do you're flirting with infant mortality. If you determine you need a 500 watt supply, buy a 650 watt or greater. For example, a few of the Asus motherboards call for a 600 watt power supply.
Be sure the memory you buy is the right type for your motherboard and buy as much as you can afford.
Most graphics cards are targeted at gamers, which is fine, but what if you're not building a gaming machine as was my case. Here again, be sure to do your homework, this was probably one of my toughest decisions. I prefer nVidia based graphics to ATI so I went with an nVidia Quadro card. Just be sure again the get as much memory as you can.
Lastly I just want to say; don't be ashamed to ask for advice, keep it quiet and keep it cool!
My current computer sits along side my desk. I built a small platform to raise it up about six inches making it easier to reach the controls. The new mid tower case I just ordered has the power switches about a third of the way up from the bottom. It also has two USB, a fire wire, headphone and mic connectors on the front panel at the top of the case so they're easy to access.
The power supply should of course handle your needs, but it should also have enough head room for potential add-ons later. You also DO NOT want to be running your power supply at max, if you do you're flirting with infant mortality. If you determine you need a 500 watt supply, buy a 650 watt or greater. For example, a few of the Asus motherboards call for a 600 watt power supply.
Be sure the memory you buy is the right type for your motherboard and buy as much as you can afford.
Most graphics cards are targeted at gamers, which is fine, but what if you're not building a gaming machine as was my case. Here again, be sure to do your homework, this was probably one of my toughest decisions. I prefer nVidia based graphics to ATI so I went with an nVidia Quadro card. Just be sure again the get as much memory as you can.
Lastly I just want to say; don't be ashamed to ask for advice, keep it quiet and keep it cool!
I've been building systems since 1981 and don't
want to stop, don't know how. For business,
the parameters have been set and flexiblity
gives way to compatablity. For my self, I
spend at least three months shopping, snooping
and reading any info I can on what's the
newest and trends for the future. I spend
$50 for just magazines before I know what
my parameters are and then the shopping
kicks in, what can I get to all work together
with minimal hassle and no SNAFU's.
Mother Nature and THE WILL OF GOD will make
your most recent crowning acheivement
obsolete in one day.
want to stop, don't know how. For business,
the parameters have been set and flexiblity
gives way to compatablity. For my self, I
spend at least three months shopping, snooping
and reading any info I can on what's the
newest and trends for the future. I spend
$50 for just magazines before I know what
my parameters are and then the shopping
kicks in, what can I get to all work together
with minimal hassle and no SNAFU's.
Mother Nature and THE WILL OF GOD will make
your most recent crowning acheivement
obsolete in one day.
the article seems to concentrate on building from-scratch systems for a corporate environment. While it might be cheaper when looking at building one system, it most likely won't be if you're looking at customizing more systems (I haven't done the math, but you might want to do it before going this route)
Another important consideration in a corporate environment would be warranty considerations.
Now for the avid home users it's a different story. But your very first step should be determing what the system will be used for. A pc used for some browsing, emailing and wordprocesing will have very different requirements from the PC used for video editing, autoCad and worst of all gaming.
Another important consideration in a corporate environment would be warranty considerations.
Now for the avid home users it's a different story. But your very first step should be determing what the system will be used for. A pc used for some browsing, emailing and wordprocesing will have very different requirements from the PC used for video editing, autoCad and worst of all gaming.
for every newbie that asked me how much computer to buy, when they couldn't define what it was going to be used for... *RME*
Then I wouldn't have to ask the next question (How many kids do you have and how old are they?) *LOL*
Then I wouldn't have to ask the next question (How many kids do you have and how old are they?) *LOL*
When I was a newbie, the most frustrating question was "what are you gonna use your computer for?"
A newbie is a newbie because he/she doesn't know what computers can do.
A better question might be "How much money can you spend"? Then you can tell the newbie what his budget will get him.
A newbie is a newbie because he/she doesn't know what computers can do.
A better question might be "How much money can you spend"? Then you can tell the newbie what his budget will get him.
because I've seen too many overpriced systems.
I've also dealt w/gamers that have no real clue why their games run so slowly. I always have to milk them for details about their current hardware (or make the dreaded housecall) to see what they currently have and have running on it.
In the case of 1'st-timers, the Q about "How many kids...?" tends to make me lead them towards the other end of the hardware spectrum.
The "How Much Money Ya Got?" is my 3rd question that determines the final solution that is the best fit for their needs. For custom systems, I recommend only 1 or 2 local builders that I know won't gouge them in the wallet. I've recommended hardware/software/builders to dozens of co-workers and friends over a dozen years, and so far every last one has thanked me for my help and direction. Yay! Everybody won!
I've also dealt w/gamers that have no real clue why their games run so slowly. I always have to milk them for details about their current hardware (or make the dreaded housecall) to see what they currently have and have running on it.
In the case of 1'st-timers, the Q about "How many kids...?" tends to make me lead them towards the other end of the hardware spectrum.
The "How Much Money Ya Got?" is my 3rd question that determines the final solution that is the best fit for their needs. For custom systems, I recommend only 1 or 2 local builders that I know won't gouge them in the wallet. I've recommended hardware/software/builders to dozens of co-workers and friends over a dozen years, and so far every last one has thanked me for my help and direction. Yay! Everybody won!
While considering each component, but especially mainboard, remember to get the newest variations of each interface type to make way for "progress". If you're taking your own time instead of buying a cheap assempbly line system, you can also save some of your future money by planning now. Get a motherboard with PCI Express, not AGP video, for example, and definitely SATA for hard disks, not IDE only. Oh, and it seems DDR memory is near its end, and even AMD's new processors will require DDR2 this year.
that I am still forced to use/maintain a 486/33 to configure SCADA remote terminal units whose programming interface only runs on DOS?
It's true!
It's true!
You know what Windows XP does for me that DOS didn't?
Wastes a bunch of computating ability on eye candy, that's what.
Wastes a bunch of computating ability on eye candy, that's what.
How about the original IBM PC with the external
case for a 10MB hard drive. Staill have two
of these relics, but due to upgrades in other
parts of the operation, I have loads of
replacement parts. Just ran across a 20MB
drive on a card unit the other day. Lord,
what have I got that i want to put 10MB on.
case for a 10MB hard drive. Staill have two
of these relics, but due to upgrades in other
parts of the operation, I have loads of
replacement parts. Just ran across a 20MB
drive on a card unit the other day. Lord,
what have I got that i want to put 10MB on.
I would suggest that you refrain from following just anybody and everybody's advice {No reflection on the people here} on what to buy for where etc. Do your home Work,find out for yourself if an ASUS meets your need better than Gigabyte. Do you want and ATI vga or an NVidia,how much Ram do you want in each, 128, 256mgs? Make sure that if sometime down the road you decide to upgrade your RAM, you will be able to and not be blocked by Motherboard limitations and may I add, the best advice I've read here is "A cool running PC" is much better that a Hot one.
The same can be said of the VGA, Put a fan on that also.
So don't skimp on the fans. I even have on directly underneath my Main hard Drive. Needless to say, I do a clean up regularly, allow no Dust Bunnies to build up and have kids
And last but no least, I NEVER leave a computer on, unattended.
Since I am not a business and no communication is expected during the night, why should I fry my computer for no reason at all.
Oh yes, you get the argument that it maintains a steady temperature equilibrium within the system.
However I prefer it Cool and any tech will tell you that after awhile, every resistor, or transistor, must burn out so I would strongly suggest that the computer be turned OFF when not in actual use.
Besides all that, it's great fun to build your own and the sense of achievement is like no other.
Good luck and enjoy, but be smart, make notes and compare. You'll come out the winner.
Regards
Aaron
The same can be said of the VGA, Put a fan on that also.
So don't skimp on the fans. I even have on directly underneath my Main hard Drive. Needless to say, I do a clean up regularly, allow no Dust Bunnies to build up and have kids
And last but no least, I NEVER leave a computer on, unattended.
Since I am not a business and no communication is expected during the night, why should I fry my computer for no reason at all.
Oh yes, you get the argument that it maintains a steady temperature equilibrium within the system.
However I prefer it Cool and any tech will tell you that after awhile, every resistor, or transistor, must burn out so I would strongly suggest that the computer be turned OFF when not in actual use.
Besides all that, it's great fun to build your own and the sense of achievement is like no other.
Good luck and enjoy, but be smart, make notes and compare. You'll come out the winner.
Regards
Aaron
Although a cheap chance to pimp my own price comparison site, even before I set it up I would always use other price comparisons to get a comprehensive list and overview of ranges across different vendors. http://www.comparecomponents.com is my site. In addition to this, I would say to be cautious of SATA when building a linux based PC, as some of the SATA drivers are not nearly as mature as IDE, and so things like SMART monitoring will not work properly - be sure to check on the status of support for SATA chipsets on motherboards when choosing a motherboard for a linux SATA-based system, or stick to plain old ATA IDE.
Wow, I've never seen a better bunch of windows zombies and spammers. I've been in the industry since way before most of you were born apparently. This site is a plethora of smegma and spam but not necessarily in that order. I've never been more embarassed by "so called" (and unreasonably assumed) tech professionals. What, you thought you were going to make a million dollars and found out you really don't know a damn thing when it comes to the computer industry. Stop trying to make money off of everything, least of all your "expertise", and start contributing to the real goal of the ideals of what all of this is about. This article does little if nothing to give an informed opinion on how to actually decide what you need to build a decent pc. The only thing that makes it worse are the comments that follow the article by "self proclaimed" experts. You want real advice? Abandon microsoft with a veangance and never look back. The reason most of the hardware you buy costs what it does is because of the monopoly designated by this company and their requirement that you design your hardware based on their software design. Get a clue sheep!
Why don't you go stick your head in an oven any put yourself out of your misery?
I too, have been around since we programmed everything in assembly but I've learned something over the years. Go with what works. I'm sick and tired of flakey Linux boxes, works today but not tomorrow PHP servers and all the rest of this rubbish. Yeah, I'm not too fond of Microsofts licensing structure but since I knock out code for a living I must be sure that the customer will be satisfied today, tomorrow and the forseeable future. Besides this what has Windows got to do with secifying a hardware configuration for a PC?? Pot around with other OS's all you want I haven't got enough years left to waste.
Apart from calling everybody a dumb ignorant, or as you put it "windows zombies and spammers", what are your suggestions?
I just have to assume that you are contributing big time to alternative OS like Linux etc. maybe you even built your own OS. Good job! But, let us ignorants share your joy, enlighten us.
Even if you dislike Windows, it is the OS most of us use, just because it's there. You don't want to use it? Good, your choice.
Assuming you are a professional, share your professional opinion, suggest alternatives and show what you really got.
I just have to assume that you are contributing big time to alternative OS like Linux etc. maybe you even built your own OS. Good job! But, let us ignorants share your joy, enlighten us.
Even if you dislike Windows, it is the OS most of us use, just because it's there. You don't want to use it? Good, your choice.
Assuming you are a professional, share your professional opinion, suggest alternatives and show what you really got.
Something which SHOULD be mentioned, but rarely is: DO NOT use a case with a window in it!!!
Power supplies, m'boards, video boards, etc. can generate a great deal of radio frequency noise with subsequent interference to other electronics - known as RFI (radio frequency interference). Cases with windows or inadequate shielding allow this noise to escape, causing broadband radio noise (sometimes exceeding S9 levels). The FCC does act on complaints of RFI, and depending upon where in the RF spectrum the interference is and its impact, fines can go into the thousands of dollars per DAY! You do not want to be cited for interference with aeronautical, public safety, or other radio services (or even your neighbor's TV or radio reception)... Like the IRS, ignoring FCC regs can only cause grief and cost $$$. You will want a case with the best possible shielding, to avoid any potential RFI issues.
Power supplies, m'boards, video boards, etc. can generate a great deal of radio frequency noise with subsequent interference to other electronics - known as RFI (radio frequency interference). Cases with windows or inadequate shielding allow this noise to escape, causing broadband radio noise (sometimes exceeding S9 levels). The FCC does act on complaints of RFI, and depending upon where in the RF spectrum the interference is and its impact, fines can go into the thousands of dollars per DAY! You do not want to be cited for interference with aeronautical, public safety, or other radio services (or even your neighbor's TV or radio reception)... Like the IRS, ignoring FCC regs can only cause grief and cost $$$. You will want a case with the best possible shielding, to avoid any potential RFI issues.
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