Questions

Do i have a bad processor?

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0 Votes
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Do i have a bad processor?

CoreyX64
Hi everyone,
I have a HP DV5-1125NR laptop that someone gave me because it overheated. after various tests i determined that it was a defective heatsink because the HS was getting very hot but the fan was blowing out cold air. Got a new heatsink and reseated it exactly like the original. i put new arctic silver thermal paste on it to ensure proper heat conduction. when i buttoned everything back up, the system wouldnt boot. The caps lock and numlock lights were blinking an error code. i did some research and i found (on HPs support WS) that the blink code i was encountering means CPU failure. the CPU had worked BEFORE i replaced the heatsink. i put the original HS back on, still not working. This laptop is out of warranty, and it costs about 400-500 bucks to ship it to HP to fix it, when for about 80 bucks (30 heatsink, 50 new CPU) i can repair it myself. ive already replaced the heatsink which solved the original issue, because now the so determined "dead" CPU is getting hot and the fans airflow is also hot air like it should be. so the heatsink is fixed. Now i have to figure out if the CPU really is bad. i was careful in handling all the items, so no static shock would damage it. but according to the bios blink code, the CPU is bad. What do you think? i can get a new processor on ebay for about 50 bucks, but before i make the investment i want to be for sure that it is the problem.

Any tips or pointers welcomed. If it means me getting my free laptop working again, then im willing to do it :)

Here are the specs:
HP DV5 Bronze series
DV5-1025NR
Windows Vista HP 64-bit
AMD Turion 64 X2 @2.0GHz
4GB DDR2 RAM
250GB WD SATA HDD

I tried removing the CMOS battery and clearing the CMOS, but the error code still appears. Also, before it died, I updated it to the latest BIOS revision.

What should I do now?

Thanks in advance,
Corey
  • +
    1 Votes
    OldER Mycroft

    Would you? Too much chance of an enforced shutdown and corrupted BIOS.

    So, I'm assuming the laptop functioned OK until you updated the BIOS, which you did after replacing the heatsink.

    Or do I have this wrong?

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    0 Votes
    CoreyX64

    Sorry for the late reply, I had completely forgot about this question.

    The BIOS was updated PRIOR to doing anything. That is, when the laptop was fully functional. BIOS up, HS replace, laptop dies. in that order.

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    0 Votes
    seanferd

    @ Corey -

    Can we assume you have re-seated the processor again since then? **** out the pin sockets with canned air? Processor is seated correctly? (Sometimes you can, in fact, put them in wrong.)

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    1 Votes
    OH Smeg

    Even on a NB system they are a simple device which increases the surface area to improve cooling.

    If there was air passing over it and not taking any heat away from the metal bit then obviously the Air Chanel's/Vents/Veins where blocked.

    Depending on how long that the old Heatsink was in place the Thermal Paste could have gone really hard and when you removed the Old Heat Sink you dislodged the CPU. I would suggest removing the new Heatsink, then the CPU and reseating it in it's socket. Also how did you clean off the Old Thermal Paste before fitting the new Heat Sink?

    If it wasn't cleaned perfectly both the CPU and Heatsink you have contaminated the new Heat Sink Compound and it's will need replacing.

    Also if you touched the new Paste with your skin it will need replacing as the Acids in your skin have a very detrimental Effect on this type of Compound. You should never use anything but clean Metal to spread the new Heat Sink Paste around when refitting the Heatsink. You should also clean all of the old paste off of the CPU and here I'm assuming the replacement Heatsink as well.

    With old Heat Sink Paste I have seen CPU's pull out of a Locked Socket when the Heat Sink was improperly removed and in some cases where the CPU has lifted slightly when a new Heatsink was fitted the Pins on the CPU get bent rendering the CPU useless.

    However saying that whenever a AMD CPU has gone bad I have always found that the M'Board as well is damaged and needs replacing. This only happens with AMD units and is not something I have ever run across with Intel CPU's. From my experience when you need to replace a AMD M'Board do the CPU as well as I have never found a AMD CPU outlast the M'Board that it was originally mounted on.

    Col

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    0 Votes
    CoreyX64

    The CPU was cleaned using a paper towel (so i didnt scratch anything) by wiping off the old paste. It was a bit on the crusty side, although upon replacing it I applied it using a clean, smooth screwdriver (for the reason of skin oil as you had mentioned)

    In more recent years my experiences with AMD have been much smoother, this being the exception. Although, generally speaking I have had several bad experiences with AMD, which is why anytime I rebuild someone's system (get rid of dinosaur parts in exchange for shiny 2010-11 parts while salvaging the case and PSU to conserve costs for people on a tight budget) I ALWAYS go Intel, in combination with rock-solid GIGABYTE motherboards---some of the most dependable boards I've worked with.

    To everyone who answered this question---the problem was the molding between the aluminum heatsink and the copper heatpipe somehow separated. It didn't physically wiggle, but something caused a break in heat conductivity between those 2 metals, and so the heatsink was overheating and the heat was not transferring over to the fan to cool off. Nonetheless, I never was able to resurrect this laptop, so I parted it out for repairs. (made a decent profit from it)

    I ended up putting about 200 bucks into it for repairs, which is upsetting since nothing worked. Replaced the motherboard, CPU, heatsink, and swapped RAM with another PC. still nothing.

    Thanks again to everyone who helped. Your suggestions were very helpful
    ~Corey~

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    0 Votes
    pc boss

    Before replaciing the processor do the following:

    1) Remove the processor and look carefully to make sure that the pins are ok (not so easy to tell though).

    2)**** out the socket with a can of compressed air. This will remove any dirt that might have gotten on there..

    3) When working with the processor make sure you are grounded properly. Re-seat the processor and make sure that it is in there securly.


    4) If after all of this you still get the problem then remove the cmos battery and wait about 5 minutes. Then plug it back in. Sometimes it cache's the previous settings when replacing a major piece of hardware. Also make sure that the bios is the most recent one.

    5) if after all of this it still does not work then you do in fact have a bad cpu.

    Hope this was helpful.

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    0 Votes
    CoreyX64

    I apologize to everyone for the late reply---I have completely given up on this laptop. Details below.

    After putting about 200 bucks into a new CPU, 2 new motherboards, and a RAM swap I have determined this not to be worth fixing. After trying all of your suggestions (which were very helpful and informative, btw) the system still failed to POST and boot.

    The laptop's fate was destined for repair parts. On a good note however, I was able to resell the LCD, CCFL inverter, hard drive and RAM, recovering my 200 dollar investment into this as well as some more for a bit of profit. "Once you've spent more than something is worth, that's when you know you've learned something" :)

    Thanks again to everyone for your tips and suggestions.
    ~Corey~

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    0 Votes
    Spannerz

    This problem comes up with desktops and laptops from time to time for me. What you'll wnna do is make sure everything (specifically the cooler's FAN) is all good to go. Now, remove the HDD. Yes, I know it sounds dumb but this has worked for me countless times. Remove it and boot. If it boots successfully, wait till it hits the screen telling you to insert a bootable drive, then shut it down by pressing the power button.

    Now what you'll wanna do is plop the HDD back in and boot. This has worked 98% of the times with laptops I've dealt with. Hope this helps :)

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    0 Votes
    nustada

    Arctic silver is conductive, and will destroy your system if your the least bit sloppy with it.

  • +
    1 Votes
    OldER Mycroft

    Would you? Too much chance of an enforced shutdown and corrupted BIOS.

    So, I'm assuming the laptop functioned OK until you updated the BIOS, which you did after replacing the heatsink.

    Or do I have this wrong?

    +
    0 Votes
    CoreyX64

    Sorry for the late reply, I had completely forgot about this question.

    The BIOS was updated PRIOR to doing anything. That is, when the laptop was fully functional. BIOS up, HS replace, laptop dies. in that order.

    +
    0 Votes
    seanferd

    @ Corey -

    Can we assume you have re-seated the processor again since then? **** out the pin sockets with canned air? Processor is seated correctly? (Sometimes you can, in fact, put them in wrong.)

    +
    1 Votes
    OH Smeg

    Even on a NB system they are a simple device which increases the surface area to improve cooling.

    If there was air passing over it and not taking any heat away from the metal bit then obviously the Air Chanel's/Vents/Veins where blocked.

    Depending on how long that the old Heatsink was in place the Thermal Paste could have gone really hard and when you removed the Old Heat Sink you dislodged the CPU. I would suggest removing the new Heatsink, then the CPU and reseating it in it's socket. Also how did you clean off the Old Thermal Paste before fitting the new Heat Sink?

    If it wasn't cleaned perfectly both the CPU and Heatsink you have contaminated the new Heat Sink Compound and it's will need replacing.

    Also if you touched the new Paste with your skin it will need replacing as the Acids in your skin have a very detrimental Effect on this type of Compound. You should never use anything but clean Metal to spread the new Heat Sink Paste around when refitting the Heatsink. You should also clean all of the old paste off of the CPU and here I'm assuming the replacement Heatsink as well.

    With old Heat Sink Paste I have seen CPU's pull out of a Locked Socket when the Heat Sink was improperly removed and in some cases where the CPU has lifted slightly when a new Heatsink was fitted the Pins on the CPU get bent rendering the CPU useless.

    However saying that whenever a AMD CPU has gone bad I have always found that the M'Board as well is damaged and needs replacing. This only happens with AMD units and is not something I have ever run across with Intel CPU's. From my experience when you need to replace a AMD M'Board do the CPU as well as I have never found a AMD CPU outlast the M'Board that it was originally mounted on.

    Col

    +
    0 Votes
    CoreyX64

    The CPU was cleaned using a paper towel (so i didnt scratch anything) by wiping off the old paste. It was a bit on the crusty side, although upon replacing it I applied it using a clean, smooth screwdriver (for the reason of skin oil as you had mentioned)

    In more recent years my experiences with AMD have been much smoother, this being the exception. Although, generally speaking I have had several bad experiences with AMD, which is why anytime I rebuild someone's system (get rid of dinosaur parts in exchange for shiny 2010-11 parts while salvaging the case and PSU to conserve costs for people on a tight budget) I ALWAYS go Intel, in combination with rock-solid GIGABYTE motherboards---some of the most dependable boards I've worked with.

    To everyone who answered this question---the problem was the molding between the aluminum heatsink and the copper heatpipe somehow separated. It didn't physically wiggle, but something caused a break in heat conductivity between those 2 metals, and so the heatsink was overheating and the heat was not transferring over to the fan to cool off. Nonetheless, I never was able to resurrect this laptop, so I parted it out for repairs. (made a decent profit from it)

    I ended up putting about 200 bucks into it for repairs, which is upsetting since nothing worked. Replaced the motherboard, CPU, heatsink, and swapped RAM with another PC. still nothing.

    Thanks again to everyone who helped. Your suggestions were very helpful
    ~Corey~

    +
    0 Votes
    pc boss

    Before replaciing the processor do the following:

    1) Remove the processor and look carefully to make sure that the pins are ok (not so easy to tell though).

    2)**** out the socket with a can of compressed air. This will remove any dirt that might have gotten on there..

    3) When working with the processor make sure you are grounded properly. Re-seat the processor and make sure that it is in there securly.


    4) If after all of this you still get the problem then remove the cmos battery and wait about 5 minutes. Then plug it back in. Sometimes it cache's the previous settings when replacing a major piece of hardware. Also make sure that the bios is the most recent one.

    5) if after all of this it still does not work then you do in fact have a bad cpu.

    Hope this was helpful.

    +
    0 Votes
    CoreyX64

    I apologize to everyone for the late reply---I have completely given up on this laptop. Details below.

    After putting about 200 bucks into a new CPU, 2 new motherboards, and a RAM swap I have determined this not to be worth fixing. After trying all of your suggestions (which were very helpful and informative, btw) the system still failed to POST and boot.

    The laptop's fate was destined for repair parts. On a good note however, I was able to resell the LCD, CCFL inverter, hard drive and RAM, recovering my 200 dollar investment into this as well as some more for a bit of profit. "Once you've spent more than something is worth, that's when you know you've learned something" :)

    Thanks again to everyone for your tips and suggestions.
    ~Corey~

    +
    0 Votes
    Spannerz

    This problem comes up with desktops and laptops from time to time for me. What you'll wnna do is make sure everything (specifically the cooler's FAN) is all good to go. Now, remove the HDD. Yes, I know it sounds dumb but this has worked for me countless times. Remove it and boot. If it boots successfully, wait till it hits the screen telling you to insert a bootable drive, then shut it down by pressing the power button.

    Now what you'll wanna do is plop the HDD back in and boot. This has worked 98% of the times with laptops I've dealt with. Hope this helps :)

    +
    0 Votes
    nustada

    Arctic silver is conductive, and will destroy your system if your the least bit sloppy with it.