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Monitor keeps losing signal

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Monitor keeps losing signal

cr4zyJ
hello all,

I have a problem that has been ongoing with my system and only recently it has been happening almost everyday.

the problem is that my main monitor continues to lose its signal while the PC is on. This has happened with different cables, a new graphics card, even when i turn off my second display monitor and just use the main one alone.

now today, i decided to switch the cables so that my second VGA display is connected to the first socket on my gfx card, and i ignored the main DVI monitor i was using. so far so good, been a good few hours and nothing has happened.

my question is since i have tried and tested in a variety of ways what the problem could be... i have not done one last thing which is change the PSU. the psu is 580W atx 2.2.

right now i have a system of an a-bit IP 35 pro XE, intel core 2 duo 2.26GHz (not ocd), radeon HD4850 512mb, audigy 2 zs, DDR2 2gb ram 1066mhz, 500gb SATA, SATA dvd rw. i always did think that a 580W PSU for this new setup i have would not cut it, however the supposed expert friend of mine at college advised me that it is, but i have my doubts.

the system prior to this one is the same except the board was an abit ip35 pro (not xe) and the gfx card was a geforce 8800GT 512mb. the ram was DDR2 2gb @ 533mhz i believe. the old system here that i had also had the same DVI monitor, and a smaller 15 inch VGA monitor as a second display. from time to time maybe once a month it would lose its signal (main DVI) and by luck from constant restarts and turning the pc on and off would it work again.

now... the main DVI seems to cut out every 20 minutes. am i right when i say i think my PSU is either not strong enough to take my new setup or it is simply comming to the end of its life? i have had it since early 2007. i never usually leave the pc on 24/7 and i use it minimum 7 hours a day, maximum 17 hours a day.

thanks in advance to anyone who can help me. i just wanted some clarification before i go lashing out cash for a new psu when i might be wrong.
  • +
    0 Votes
    OH Smeg

    When it goes out here?

    While you seem to have tried most things in the computer have you considered that maybe the monitor itself is on it's way out here?

    Now in answer to your question this will be limited because I don't have all of the facts here but if this is a no name PS I would take it out and chuck it in the bin. All No Name PS are rated to a Peek Load and can supply the rated Wattage for short periods of time till they get to a certain Temp and then they need to cut back on their power output till they have had a long enough Rest Period to return to Full Power again. A Constant Draw PS like an Antec is rated to run at it's stated Output 24/7 so if it is rated to 350 W it can supply 350 W 100% of the time where as a No Name PS which is rated to 480 W will be able to supply this load for short periods of time and then will need to drop back to a lower output till it's components have cooled down again. Quite often a 350 W Constant Rated PS will work better than a 600 W Peek PS.

    The other thing to look at is your actual Mains Supply if ti is dirty with lots of Spikes and other ripples it will place a higher load on the PS to do it's job as it has to work harder to supply stable filtered power. So things like Electrical Central Heating/Air Conditioning fridges, washing Machines switching on and off will produce Spikes that may have undesirable effects here. Also if you are on the end of the Mains Supply in your ares you could be suffering for constant prolonged Brown Outs where the Voltage drops below the threshold of some appliances to work correctly. Things like TV's not showing a full screen and hot plates on Stoves not all being able to be used at once are signs of a Brown out.

    If you suffer Brown Outs Electric Motors in things like Fridges & Freezers tend to die very quickly basically any Electric Motor and Switch Mode Power Supplies don't like Brown Outs at all and do suffer from these.

    But on the other side of the coin I got a computer in with the symptom of loosing the Display after 20 minutes or so and I spent days messing around changing things only to finally prove that my Monitor had chosen that time to die and was shutting down for a Heat Related Issue that it was now producing. It would run for a set period of time loose it's display till it was turned off and then switched back on and then it would run for a shorter time before going out again. Though the LED on the front of the monitor was showing that it was in the Run Position not the Power Saving Mode. It turns out that I had fixed the main problem and was seeing a similar issue because of the monitor failing.


    Col

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    0 Votes
    cr4zyJ

    the main monitor i am using is a samsung SM2032BW. the message that i get is at the top left hand side of the screen and it simply says "Digital" and then changes to "Analog" constantly for about 10 seconds, and then the monitor powers off but the led power button is flashing. If i then push the power button it stops flashing, turn it back on again and the monitor displays the same message. only when i power off the pc by force (hold power button) and turn it back on do i regain the visual on screen of the motherboard booting up the system.

    now... i have something new to add to this whole topic. The second display that i said i tried using as the new main one, ignoring the troublesome DVI one and using this secondary VGA monitor as the primary only... this also after a few hours gave up on me. Both of the monitors are new, the samsung main one (DVI) was bought last year november time. This VGA monitor was bought 2 weeks ago, its an Asus from overclockers UK 20 inch LCD. the VGA one gave up while i was watching a youtube video.

    i tried now the other DVI monitor again and i ran EVE Online. As soon as i tried to login to the game the monitor cut out on me again. surely... both monitors cant be ruined in such a short space of time from when they were recently bought, can they?

    it would make more sense now to me that the PSU is the problem. However as you stated in your post... it is definetely not a no-name PSU. It is a 580W Hiper PSU, from overclockers UK and i have double checked and it does in fact run at 80% efficieny / constant 24/7 highest power output whatever you want to call it. It is just confusing me because i have friends who use their PCs so much more heavily than i do and have been using the same old PSU for about 5 years running and even with upgrades they are fine, yet i have this problem. i also read up about my radeon HD4850 online and aparently the recommended wattage needed for it to run ok is a 550W PSU, and i have 580w. so i only have a tiny 30W extra from the recommended, and also considering that this PSU most of the time will run at 80% efficiency, that means it is actually 464W constant, and not 580W. considering that i need 550W recommended, am i right now about needing to change the PSU? i have worked out that a 700W PSU running at 80% constant will give me a guaranteed 560W, which is over the recommended, so im guessing a PSU ranging between 700W to 750W is ok. please clarify this, and also provide more advice if you have any better ideas.

    thank you again

    The PSU power cable is connected to one of those surge protectors, and the surge protector is connected straight to a wall. could the surge protector also be a possible issue? maybe if i change it... or even just plug the PSU straight into the wall?

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    0 Votes
    cr4zyJ

    i am writing to confirm that the problem has been solved.

    problem was the PSU i had. I have changed it to a BFG 800W 80% typical efficiency ATX2.2 PSU and all is ok now, I have way over the amount of constant power flow for all my hardware making up the system, and now the monitors refuse to turn off unless i of course turn them off myself.

    so to anyone out there with a similar problem... double check your PSU, and make sure it has enough muscle for your system.

    thanks to Col for advice too.

  • +
    0 Votes
    OH Smeg

    When it goes out here?

    While you seem to have tried most things in the computer have you considered that maybe the monitor itself is on it's way out here?

    Now in answer to your question this will be limited because I don't have all of the facts here but if this is a no name PS I would take it out and chuck it in the bin. All No Name PS are rated to a Peek Load and can supply the rated Wattage for short periods of time till they get to a certain Temp and then they need to cut back on their power output till they have had a long enough Rest Period to return to Full Power again. A Constant Draw PS like an Antec is rated to run at it's stated Output 24/7 so if it is rated to 350 W it can supply 350 W 100% of the time where as a No Name PS which is rated to 480 W will be able to supply this load for short periods of time and then will need to drop back to a lower output till it's components have cooled down again. Quite often a 350 W Constant Rated PS will work better than a 600 W Peek PS.

    The other thing to look at is your actual Mains Supply if ti is dirty with lots of Spikes and other ripples it will place a higher load on the PS to do it's job as it has to work harder to supply stable filtered power. So things like Electrical Central Heating/Air Conditioning fridges, washing Machines switching on and off will produce Spikes that may have undesirable effects here. Also if you are on the end of the Mains Supply in your ares you could be suffering for constant prolonged Brown Outs where the Voltage drops below the threshold of some appliances to work correctly. Things like TV's not showing a full screen and hot plates on Stoves not all being able to be used at once are signs of a Brown out.

    If you suffer Brown Outs Electric Motors in things like Fridges & Freezers tend to die very quickly basically any Electric Motor and Switch Mode Power Supplies don't like Brown Outs at all and do suffer from these.

    But on the other side of the coin I got a computer in with the symptom of loosing the Display after 20 minutes or so and I spent days messing around changing things only to finally prove that my Monitor had chosen that time to die and was shutting down for a Heat Related Issue that it was now producing. It would run for a set period of time loose it's display till it was turned off and then switched back on and then it would run for a shorter time before going out again. Though the LED on the front of the monitor was showing that it was in the Run Position not the Power Saving Mode. It turns out that I had fixed the main problem and was seeing a similar issue because of the monitor failing.


    Col

    +
    0 Votes
    cr4zyJ

    the main monitor i am using is a samsung SM2032BW. the message that i get is at the top left hand side of the screen and it simply says "Digital" and then changes to "Analog" constantly for about 10 seconds, and then the monitor powers off but the led power button is flashing. If i then push the power button it stops flashing, turn it back on again and the monitor displays the same message. only when i power off the pc by force (hold power button) and turn it back on do i regain the visual on screen of the motherboard booting up the system.

    now... i have something new to add to this whole topic. The second display that i said i tried using as the new main one, ignoring the troublesome DVI one and using this secondary VGA monitor as the primary only... this also after a few hours gave up on me. Both of the monitors are new, the samsung main one (DVI) was bought last year november time. This VGA monitor was bought 2 weeks ago, its an Asus from overclockers UK 20 inch LCD. the VGA one gave up while i was watching a youtube video.

    i tried now the other DVI monitor again and i ran EVE Online. As soon as i tried to login to the game the monitor cut out on me again. surely... both monitors cant be ruined in such a short space of time from when they were recently bought, can they?

    it would make more sense now to me that the PSU is the problem. However as you stated in your post... it is definetely not a no-name PSU. It is a 580W Hiper PSU, from overclockers UK and i have double checked and it does in fact run at 80% efficieny / constant 24/7 highest power output whatever you want to call it. It is just confusing me because i have friends who use their PCs so much more heavily than i do and have been using the same old PSU for about 5 years running and even with upgrades they are fine, yet i have this problem. i also read up about my radeon HD4850 online and aparently the recommended wattage needed for it to run ok is a 550W PSU, and i have 580w. so i only have a tiny 30W extra from the recommended, and also considering that this PSU most of the time will run at 80% efficiency, that means it is actually 464W constant, and not 580W. considering that i need 550W recommended, am i right now about needing to change the PSU? i have worked out that a 700W PSU running at 80% constant will give me a guaranteed 560W, which is over the recommended, so im guessing a PSU ranging between 700W to 750W is ok. please clarify this, and also provide more advice if you have any better ideas.

    thank you again

    The PSU power cable is connected to one of those surge protectors, and the surge protector is connected straight to a wall. could the surge protector also be a possible issue? maybe if i change it... or even just plug the PSU straight into the wall?

    +
    0 Votes
    cr4zyJ

    i am writing to confirm that the problem has been solved.

    problem was the PSU i had. I have changed it to a BFG 800W 80% typical efficiency ATX2.2 PSU and all is ok now, I have way over the amount of constant power flow for all my hardware making up the system, and now the monitors refuse to turn off unless i of course turn them off myself.

    so to anyone out there with a similar problem... double check your PSU, and make sure it has enough muscle for your system.

    thanks to Col for advice too.