The main thing to keep in mind when building a gaming rig is that every component will take a real beating. This is a business where a lot of components are 'identical' on paper but there's a huge difference in practice.
Quality matters here. You need quality components that can handle the high workload that gaming puts on them. Cheaper components will lead to frustratingly random failures that will be difficult to diagnose.
Here's some things to consider.
- Power supply(PSU). DO NOT SKIMP HERE!! High end processors, Hard drives, and Graphics cards draw a lot of current. the PSU needs to be able to supply that current without noise or brownouts. PSU's are a lot like cheap stereo's, you'll see a lot of high watt numbers that are outright false or sneaky advertising. Stick with a proven, well reviewed brand and model. PC Power & Cooling, SPI, Antec are just a few examples to get you started. Get a 500W minimum. And modular plugs are nice, but not neccessary.
- Cooling/Case. Get a case not just for looks, but one that provides good cooling. Look at the case, it's fan locations, and imagine the airflow path and see if there will bee good flow. A properly designed system should pull air in from the bottom front of the tower, and expel it out through the upper rear, through the PSU. It should cross the CPU and Graphics card on the way.
IMO, all exterior fans _except_ the PSU fan should be pulling air into the case, and all the air should exhaust out the PSU. A good PSU will have a fan on the bottom, pulling air across the CPU and another fan at the back exhausting it out. The system should create positive air pressure in the case. This gives you more, denser cooling air into every nook and cranny of the system. Watch for places where air can leak and cause a bypass of the airflow. Missing PCI slot backplates or empty drive bays are a good example. I often cover empty drive bays with duct tape (behind the faceplate for obvious aesthetic reasons).
- Get a good motherboard with all the features you _need_ but don't worry about gimmicky features. I personally prefer and recommend Asus motherboards. They have an excellent reputation in both the commercial and gaming industries. They tend to use high quality components and have well engineered, multi-layer board designs with properly laid out ground plane layers. I know there are gamer types out there who will say nonsense like "Screw Asus, the sukitake model wazoo 5000 get's 4% better renderfish benchmark scores" or some such nonsense. Most often there are boards and brands that will trade some stability for a tiny bit of percieved speed. Todays systems are so fast that stability is much more important.
- AMD vs Intel. Whoever told you "Apparently, AMD got heated out easily & you need some sort of water to be installed inside the system for cooling effect." is misinformed and slightly confused. Many gamers _Choose_ to water cool their systems in order to overclock them and wring that few extra benchmark score points out of their systems, mostly for bragging rights to their friends. It's really not necessary. Your friend may have gotten confused because the AMD chips are more popular among gamers (with good reason) and are also easy to overclock and water cool. Personally, I prefer AMD. At this point Intel is playing catch-up in a few key areas. AMD in particular has an advantage in bus efficiency. AMD's Hypertransport bus is blazing fast and allows fast access to memory, peripheral busses, and other cores. This makes a particular difference in dual core applications with PCI-X Graphics. I would recommend a dual core Athlon-64. Now there are Intel Core2 Duo fans waiting to scream at me, and yes the C2D is a good chip, but it's newer and still has some bus performance issues that Intel tries to compensate for with large cache sizes. This is fine for number crunching, but for games where you have to move out of the cache and onto the bus evetually (ie the massive data pumped to the grapphics card) you start to see the penalty. However, it would still be a fnie choice. Also remember that the gamer market is about overkill. Your nephew would be thrilled with an Athlon 64 FX 60. This is the last of the socket 939 chips and doesn't leave the upgrade options, but on the other hand, it's probably more CPU than you need anyway. After all, unless he's going to spend thousands on dual SLI graphics cards and a wall size flat panel with ridiculous resolutions, the CPU will be waiting for other parts of the computer most of the time anyway. In the real world, 1280x1024 or 1600x1200 are about the max usable resolution that normal people can afford and moer than you need. After all, that's HDTV class megapixels. Anyway, if you wanted to save a few bucks, the FX60 and a good 939 motherboard would be less right now. Or go all out with the AM2 Athlon 64 FX-62 and an AM2 motherboard. This has all kinds of room to grow and expand, but at more cost.
- Graphics. This is as big a holy war as AMD vs Intel, and I say buy whatever quality brand PCI-X board meets your needs, and is on sale. You'll want 128MB memory at the minimum and 256 is a better choice since you can't upgrade the video RAM. ATI or nVidia. I'm a bit of an nVidia fan myself, not because their hardware is better, but because their drivers tend to be better, and more mature. And drivers can have a huge impact on GPU (graphics processor) performance. You don't need SLI(dual graphics boards working together), but you can prepare for it by getting a system and graphics board that's capable of it in case you want to upgrade later.
-RAM... Get name brand, matched pairs of RAM modules and put them in the proper slots on your mobo to work in interleaved mode (see your mobo manual). You'll need at least 1GB minimum. 2GB would be sweet. A motherbaord with 4 RAM slots instead of 2 also gives you more expansion options.
- Hard drives. These days SATA IDE is pretty much standard, and cheap. Don't bother using onboard RAID if your motherboard supports it.
I'd say get 2 drives, and use one for the OS, apps and games, the other for data (ISO Images, pictures, MP3's etc.) and backups of drive 1. 120GB+ for drive 1, and 250GB+ for drive 2. Watch for sales, big $ can be saved here. Also, I personally wouldn't own a Western Digital, no matter what kind of sale they have. They have had quality issues for the last 15 years. I'd look at Seagate, or Maxtor.
- Monitor. Remember, this is your primary interface to your computer. You'll be looking at it for hours on end. Personally, I'd go with a nice 19" Mitsubishi or Samsung CRT monitor here. LCD's are awesome, and I use one myself for my main workstation, but for gaming, they can be quite expensive to get one that is suitable, and even then you likely won't be as happy with it as a CRT, though the day of the gaming LCD is coming soon.
- KB/Mouse. Most PC games use the keyboard as the primary input device, along with the mouse so get something good here. Personally I avoid Microsoft hardware products as they contract them out to the lowest korean or chinese bidder.
A Logitech KB mouse combo would be nice.
Personally, I'd get a buckling spring, mechanical key switch keyboard. These are far superior to the crap membrane keyboards floating around out there now.
You can find more from here:
http://www.clickykeyboards.com/
Another example is here:
http://www.thinkgeek.com/computing/input/8396/
IMO forget the 'gaming' keyboards.
As for the mouse. I personally prefer the simple black Logitech corded optical.
However, you'll probably want to look at the Logitech laser gaming mouse.
- Software. If you want to game, keep the system lean. Don't install a lot of crap that runs at startup. Avoid trendy system tweaks and the like. Certainly I wouldn't install Microsoft Office ( at least not with indexer enabled) If he needs to type the occasional document, OpenOffice is much better about not changing system DLLs and settings without asking like MS Office does. And OpenOffice.org is more than enough office sute for 90% of users anyway, especially if you install OpenOffice Premium (Now called Oxygen office I think, google it). Also do not install security weak programs like many P2P apps and IM clients.
Uninstall outlook, install Firefox, Thunderbird, Azureus, Limewire, GTK+/Gimp, Paint.net, Picassa, 7z, and OpenOffice. This should get you started on free, quality, reasonably safe software. File hippo and google should find you these.
Use good anti-malware programs. Good <> expensive. Good means something that works, as well as something you'll use. Personally I use a combination of the following free products.
- Antivir Antivirus scanner
- SpyBot Search & Destroy
- Spyware Blaster
- CrapCleaner
Also remember to disk scan and defrag your hard drives regularly. Disk Keeper lite works well for this.
Well, that's all for now I guess.
Hope this helps,
Tachyon