Cracking open the Nintendo GameCube - TechRepublic

Cracking open the Nintendo GameCube

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    Nintendo GameCube

    \n\tReleased in 2001, the GameCube was Nintendo’s fourth video game console and a significant step forward. With the GameCube, Nintendo moved away a from cartridge-based games to 1.5GB 8cm discs–similar to miniDVD.
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    \n\tOriginally priced at $199 USD, we purchased this refurbished unit for about $70.

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  • GameCube front

    The four controller ports and two memory card slots are located on the GameCube’s front panel.

  • Right

    The GameCube’s air intake is located on the unit’s right side.

  • Game disc lid open

  • DC power connector and AV outs

    The GameCube has one analog audio/video output and one “Digital” video output–this output was removed in later versions of the GameCube.

  • Bottom port covers removed

    The GameCube has a highspeed data port and serial port.

  • Gamecube, power adapter, AV cable, and controller

  • GameCube Controller

    The GameCube controller has two analog sticks, a D-pad and eight buttons.

  • GameCube Controller back

    Two trigger buttons and a shoulder button are located on the front of the controller.

  • Top cover, front panel, back panel, and chassis

    Disassembling the GameCube begins by removing the four tamper resistant screws that hold on the top cover.

    These screws use a 6-point, external star head. You can buy specialty screwdrivers and bits online, but I didn’t have that much time. I used a drill. this damaged the four cover posts on the GameCube’s chassis, but it doesn’t really matter. I don’t plan on moving this GameCube around much and with the top cover in place, the unit works fine.

    With the four screws removed, you can lift off the top cover and the snap off the back and front panels.

  • Front panel

    The front panel snaps to the chassis. It contains the four controller ports and slot for the two memory card ports.

  • Chassis with optical drive still attached

    The GameCube’s optical drive sits atop the chassis.

  • Optical drive

    With the fan removed, you can access and unscrew the remaining Phillips screws that hold the optical drive to the chassis.

  • Gamecube motherboard and heatsink - Top

    With the optical drive gone, we get our first look at the motherboard. The large heatsink covers most of the GameCubes chips.

  • Gamecube motherboard and heatsink - Front

  • Heatsink screws

    Six Phillips screws hold the heatsink to the motherboard.

  • Heatsink without screws

    With the screws removed, I can gently remove the heatsink and expose the CPU, GPU and the GameCube’s two 1T-SRAM memory chips.

  • Motherboard without heatsink

    After removing the heatsink, we can see the CPU, GPU, and two 1T-SRAM memory chips.

  • IBM Power PC "Gekko" CPU

  • ATI "Flipper" GPU

  • Two MoSys 1T-SRAM memory chips (24MB total memory)

  • 16MB DRAM chip and audio/video outputs

  • GameCube heatshink - Top

  • GameCube heatshink - Bottom

  • Chassis with metal base plate

    The metal base plate is secured with two Phillips screws.

  • Second PCB

    With the metal base plate removed, we can see the GameCube second PCB.

  • Second PCB close-up

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Bill Detwiler is the Editor for Technical Content and Ecosystem at Celonis. He is the former Editor in Chief of TechRepublic and previous host of TechRepublic's Dynamic Developer podcast and Cracking Open, CNET and TechRepublic's popular online show. Previously, Bill was an IT manager in the social research and energy industries. He has bachelor's and master's degrees from the University of Louisville, where he has also lectured on computer crime and crime prevention.