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Wolf King Warrior
In this Gallery, we will crack open the Wolf King Warrior, which is a specially-designed game controller for FPS and other games. This is what it looks like connected to a computer as shown by the lit power LED.rnrnCracking Open Tools Required:
- #0 Phillips Screwdriver
- #1 Phillips Screwdriver
- Small Flat Screwdriver or pen knife for prying
A nice, shiny box with a cool graphic.
Is this a pizza box? No wait, there’s a controller in there.
You don’t see this type of box very often when food isn’t directly involved.
Just the Wolf King, no extras.
It looks like they’ve crammed a lot of keyboard buttons into a close reach. I also see a few buttons on the periphery and a power light. I can’t wait to fire this thing up and see how it works.
Here’s a shot of the back. There are four visible screws (which we’ll take out soon). Also, there are two flip-out keyboard feet, some nonskid pads, and a couple labels. What do those say?
The left one contains basic info on the device as well as a warning against improper use.
The right one contains the model number and serial number with barcodes.
Just for fun, a picture of one of the keyboard legs extended. Nothing new to see here.
Okay, enough goofing around. Let’s get to the good stuff.
After removing the four visible screws a few slides back, the bottom still wouldn’t come off. Sure enough, there are four more screws hidden under the four round nonskid pads.
Now that we’ve got it open, we see a large metal plate, a circuit board, and the backside of the buttons that were near the edge. Also visible is the backside of the power LED.
Off to the side are those periphery buttons and the power LED we saw earlier. Also visible is a case-ground cable screwed into the metal backplate.
Here’s the metal backplate removed. Nothing fancy.
Under the Plate
Under the metal plate is a three-layer plastic sheet with printed wire over top the rubber keys.
Here’s the three-layer plastic sheet side-by-side with the rubber key contacts. The Plastic sheet has wire printing on the outer two layers with a plain layer in between. The plain layer has holes cut in where the keys make contact to signal a keypress.
Also here is the metal bar that was across the circuit board. In addition to helping hold it in place, the metal bar has a rubberized strip on it that presses the leads on the plastic sheet to the circuit board.
Keypad Workings Closeup
Here’s a closeup of the rubber buttons and the plastic sheet. You can see the thinner plastic around the contacts where the center sheet is cut-out.
Backside of the Keys
After removing the plastic sheet and the rubber contact sheet, you can see the back side of the keys. We can see the circuit board with the metal bar removed as well as some gray clips and two more screws. We’ll have to take those out.
Closeup of the Back of the Keys
Here’s a closer view of the back of the keys. The keys are held in by a pair of clips.
Closeup of the Circuit Board
Now, with the metal bar removed, the contacts are easily visible on the circuit board.
Number Dials 1
Here are some number dials printed on the front panel. The picture is a little fuzzy, but the numbers are 2 (out of 0-9), not quite 2 (out of 0-3), 1 (out of 1-12), and 06 (out of 05-10). I’m not sure what the first two mean, but I would guess the second two mean January 06, the manufacture date.
More Number Dials
More number dials, underneath the circuit board this time, DT-AV005-851 (the last three in a range of 0-9). Also here is a letter “A” (from the range A-L). These markings don’t correspond to anything on the box or the labels, but they must have something to do with lot numbers or part numbers of the main body piece.
Back Plate Code 1
This code DT-AV006-001 followed by an A is printed on the back plate. I’m almost certain of its origin as a production code or part number because of it similarity to the code on the previous slide.
Back Plate Code 2
More codes stamped into the back plate. The DK-2388U is the model number of the device, but I’m not sure what the 1L stands for. The other codes, 06, 1, 2, 2 are the same as the codes on the inside of the front panel. This time, the arrow is pointing directly at the 2. Maybe there is an error in the stamping process that misaligned the one on the back panel.
Removing those two screws from the outer edge and popping the gray clips releases the bezel. Here’s a shot of the bezel and its screws along with a couple of keys removed.
Another shot of the full bezel.