Microsoft Kinect (Xbox 360) Teardown
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Cracking Open the Microsoft Kinect
The Microsoft Kinect is an Xbox 360 peripheral that allows a “controller-free gaming and entertainment experience.” Packed with cameras, microphones, an IR projector, and more, the Kinect is Microsoft’s answer to the Nintendo Wii remote and the Sony Playstation Move controller.
Follow along as I crack open the Kinect for a look at the hardware inside.
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Under the Kinect
Under the Kinect are the WiFi extension cable, product documentation, and the Kinect Adventures game.
Power/USB cable
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Left
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Removing the bottom grills
Thin plastic grills are mounted on both side of the Kinect. They are held in place with adhesive and plastic tabs. Using a thin metal blade or spudger, you can pry each grill loose from the Kinect’s case.
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Bottom grills removed
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Removing the Torx T10 security screws
Two Torx T10 security screws are located under each of the gills.
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More Torx T10 security screws
Two more Torx T10 screws are hidden beneath the two Xbox 360 stickers–one on each side.
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Removing the top cover
With the Torx T10 security screws removed, you can lift off the top cover.
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First look inside the Kinect
Because of the Kinect’s size, Microsoft stacked the device’s three PCBs.
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Back with top cover removed
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Removing the right-side grill
With the top cover removed, you can gently slide the right-side grill away from the case.
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Left-side grill
Behind the left-side grill is the Kinect’s cooling fan.
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Removing the left-side grill and fan
Like the right-side grill, you can remove the left-side grill and fan by gently sliding them away from the case. You’ll also need to disconnect the fan’s cable from the PCB.
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Cooling fan, rubber duct, and grill
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Side grills and cooling fan removed
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First PCB
The first PCB is held in place by seven Torx T10 screws.
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Second, small PCB
The second, smaller PCB will remain attached to the first PCB, when the larger board is removed from the frame. Several cables connect various components to the first and second PCBs.
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First PCB - Bottom
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First PCB with cables disconnected
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PCB connector
To separate the first and second PCB, you’ll need to pry loose this black, rectangular connector.
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First and second PCBs separated
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First PCB - Top
A thin metal heat sink is stuck to chips on the first PCB. As I want to put this unit back together in working order, I’m going to leave the heat sink in place.
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Wolfson Microelectronics WM8737G
Wolfson Microelectronics WM8737G
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Fairchild Semiconductor FDS8984 and NEC D720114
Fairchild Semiconductor FDS8984 (right) and NEC D720114 (left)
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H1033366 XBOX1001 X851716-006 GEPP
H1033366 XBOX1001 X851716-006 GEPP (left)
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First PCB - Bottom
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ST Microelectronics 25P16V6G 9YHJM VS MYS 0384
ST Microelectronics 25P16V6G 9YHJM VS MYS 0384
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G39 01A1P 025AV
G39 01A1P 025AV
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Foxconn markings on the first PCB
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Second PCB - Bottom
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Second PCB - Top
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TI TAS1020B
TI TAS1020B
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Third PCB
With the first two PCBs removed, we can now tackle the third PCB.
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Disconnecting the camera and IR projector ribbon cables
The Kinect’s two cameras and IR projector are connected to the third PCB with three ribbon cables.
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Removing the third PCB posts
The third PCB is held in place by the posts that were used for the first PCB’s screws. I used a 3/16 inch nut driver to remove them.
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Disconnecting the last cable on the third PCB
A single cable is attached to the underside of the third PCB.
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Third PCB chips
TI ADS 7830I 07NZ
AD8694 A #024 1879325
A3906 1032 262L
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ST Microelectronics M29W800DB and Prime Sense PS1080
ST Microelectronics M29W800DB and Prime Sense PS1080
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4LBF 1027 K7B and LVX 125 015
4LBF 1027 K7B and LVX 125 015
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All PCBs removed
With the Kinect’s three PCBs removed, we can turn our attention to the remaining components.
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Removing the metal frame
The Kinect’s internal metal frame is held to the front cover with four Torx T10 screws–two on each side.
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Status LED
The status LED is held to the front frame with plastic clips. You should be able to remove it without breaking the clips.
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Microphone cables
Once the LED is disconnected, you’ll also need to pull the microphone cable through the frame.
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Microphone cables
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Microphone assembly and front cover
The Kinect has four downward-facing microphones–three on one side and one on the other. All four microphones are attached to a plastic assembly that can be removed from the front cover.
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Microphone assembly
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Metal frame, cameras, and IR projector
With all the plastic covers and PCBs removed for the Kinect’s main body, all that remains are the cameras, IR projector, status LED, base, and related cables.
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Base post screws
A single Torx T10 screw holds the base’s post to the metal frame.
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Removing the base
With the post screw removed, you can pull the base away from the metal frame. Take care when pulling the cable through the frame.
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Base
The Kinect’s base contains the motor and gears used to position the device for optimal performance.
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Status LED removed from the metal frame
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Plastic support
Before removing the cameras and IR projector, we’ll remove the white, plastic support that’s mounted to the metal frame.
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Plastic support screws
The plastic support is help to the frame by three Torx T10 screws.
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Removing the plastic support
The cable for the IR projector is attached to the plastic support, you’ll need to remove this before pulling the support completely away from the Kinect.
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Plastic support
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IR projector screws
The Kinect’s IR projector is attached to the metal frame with three Torx T6 screws.
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IR projector cable
To remove the IR projector from the metal frame, you’ll need to pull the cable through the frame.
When I was removing the cable, I pulled the cable through from the connector end. It wasn’t until after I pulled the cable through, that I find out I could have pulled it through from the other side.
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IR projector removed
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IR projector
The Kinect’s IR projector, rubber gasket, and senor cable. Had I removed the rubber gasket, I could have pulled the able through the frame from this end.
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Camera screws
The Kinect’s two cameras are held to the metal frame with six Torx T6 screws.
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Cameras
The Kinect’s two cameras are held together with a one-piece rubber gasket.
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Empty metal frame
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Disassembling the base
A rubber pad is attached to the bottom of the base and hides several Phillips #0 screws.
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Removing the base's top cover
With the Phillips #0 screws removed, you can lift the top cover away from the Kinect’s base.
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Removing the motor and gear assembly
The motor and gear assembly should come right out of the base’s bottom cover.
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Motor and gear assembly
A metal brace holds the post to the motor and gear assembly. The brace is held in place with four Phillips #0 screws.
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Opening the motor and gear assembly
Removing the three large Phillips screws on the bottom of the motor and gear assembly will let open the assembly.
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Inside the motor and gear assembly
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