After Hours

Microsoft Kinect (Xbox 360) Teardown

By · November 22, 2010, 12:07 PM PST · billdetwiler

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  • Cracking Open the Microsoft Kinect

    The Microsoft Kinect is an Xbox 360 peripheral that allows a "controller-free gaming and entertainment experience." Packed with cameras, microphones, an IR projector, and more, the Kinect is Microsoft's answer to the Nintendo Wii remote and the Sony Playstation Move controller.

    Follow along as I crack open the Kinect for a look at the hardware inside.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Box

    This Microsoft Kinect cost $150 (US) and included the game Kinect Adventures.

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  • Back of the box

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  • Opening the box

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Under the Kinect

    Under the Kinect are the WiFi extension cable, product documentation, and the Kinect Adventures game.

  • Box contents

    Inside the box, you'll find the Kinect, the Power/USB cable, the WiFi extension cable, product documentation, and the Kinect Adventures! game.

  • Power/USB cable

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  • Front

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  • Back

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  • Right

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  • Left

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  • Bottom

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the bottom grills

    Thin plastic grills are mounted on both side of the Kinect. They are held in place with adhesive and plastic tabs. Using a thin metal blade or spudger, you can pry each grill loose from the Kinect's case.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Bottom grills removed

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the Torx T10 security screws

    Two Torx T10 security screws are located under each of the gills.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • More Torx T10 security screws

    Two more Torx T10 screws are hidden beneath the two Xbox 360 stickers--one on each side.

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  • Removing the top cover

    With the Torx T10 security screws removed, you can lift off the top cover.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • First look inside the Kinect

    Because of the Kinect's size, Microsoft stacked the device's three PCBs.

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  • Back with top cover removed

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  • Removing the right-side grill

    With the top cover removed, you can gently slide the right-side grill away from the case.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Left-side grill

    Behind the left-side grill is the Kinect's cooling fan.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the left-side grill and fan

    Like the right-side grill, you can remove the left-side grill and fan by gently sliding them away from the case. You'll also need to disconnect the fan's cable from the PCB.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Cooling fan, rubber duct, and grill

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Side grills and cooling fan removed

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the back cover

    With the side grills and cooling fan removed, you can remove the back cover.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Back cover removed

    With the back cover removed, we get a better look at the Kinect's internal metal frame and the three, stacked PCBs. The PCBs are connected to each other with black, plastic connectors.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • First PCB

    The first PCB is held in place by seven Torx T10 screws.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Second, small PCB

    The second, smaller PCB will remain attached to the first PCB, when the larger board is removed from the frame. Several cables connect various components to the first and second PCBs.

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  • First PCB - Bottom

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  • First PCB with cables disconnected

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  • PCB connector

    To separate the first and second PCB, you'll need to pry loose this black, rectangular connector.

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  • First and second PCBs separated

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  • First PCB - Top

    A thin metal heat sink is stuck to chips on the first PCB. As I want to put this unit back together in working order, I'm going to leave the heat sink in place.

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  • Wolfson Microelectronics WM8737G

    Wolfson Microelectronics WM8737G

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  • Fairchild Semiconductor FDS8984 and NEC D720114

    Fairchild Semiconductor FDS8984 (right) and NEC D720114 (left)

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  • H1033366 XBOX1001 X851716-006 GEPP

    H1033366 XBOX1001 X851716-006 GEPP (left)

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • First PCB - Bottom

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  • ST Microelectronics 25P16V6G 9YHJM VS MYS 0384

    ST Microelectronics 25P16V6G 9YHJM VS MYS 0384

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  • G39 01A1P 025AV

    G39 01A1P 025AV

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  • Foxconn markings on the first PCB

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  • Second PCB - Bottom

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  • Second PCB - Top

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • TI TAS1020B

    TI TAS1020B

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  • Third PCB

    With the first two PCBs removed, we can now tackle the third PCB.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Disconnecting the camera and IR projector ribbon cables

    The Kinect's two cameras and IR projector are connected to the third PCB with three ribbon cables.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the third PCB posts

    The third PCB is held in place by the posts that were used for the first PCB's screws. I used a 3/16 inch nut driver to remove them.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Disconnecting the last cable on the third PCB

    A single cable is attached to the underside of the third PCB.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Third PCB chips

    TI ADS 7830I 07NZ

    AD8694 A #024 1879325

    A3906 1032 262L

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  • ST Microelectronics M29W800DB and Prime Sense PS1080

    ST Microelectronics M29W800DB and Prime Sense PS1080

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  • 4LBF 1027 K7B and LVX 125 015

    4LBF 1027 K7B and LVX 125 015

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  • All PCBs removed

    With the Kinect's three PCBs removed, we can turn our attention to the remaining components.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the metal frame

    The Kinect's internal metal frame is held to the front cover with four Torx T10 screws--two on each side.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Cables

    Several cables pass through the metal frame and need to be removed before you can completely separate the frame from the front cover.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Status LED

    The status LED is held to the front frame with plastic clips. You should be able to remove it without breaking the clips.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Microphone cables

    Once the LED is disconnected, you'll also need to pull the microphone cable through the frame.

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  • Microphone cables

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Microphone assembly and front cover

    The Kinect has four downward-facing microphones--three on one side and one on the other. All four microphones are attached to a plastic assembly that can be removed from the front cover.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Microphone assembly

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Metal frame, cameras, and IR projector

    With all the plastic covers and PCBs removed for the Kinect's main body, all that remains are the cameras, IR projector, status LED, base, and related cables.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Base post screws

    A single Torx T10 screw holds the base's post to the metal frame.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the base

    With the post screw removed, you can pull the base away from the metal frame. Take care when pulling the cable through the frame.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Base

    The Kinect's base contains the motor and gears used to position the device for optimal performance.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Status LED removed from the metal frame

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Plastic support

    Before removing the cameras and IR projector, we'll remove the white, plastic support that's mounted to the metal frame.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Plastic support screws

    The plastic support is help to the frame by three Torx T10 screws.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the plastic support

    The cable for the IR projector is attached to the plastic support, you'll need to remove this before pulling the support completely away from the Kinect.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Plastic support

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • IR projector screws

    The Kinect's IR projector is attached to the metal frame with three Torx T6 screws.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • IR projector cable

    To remove the IR projector from the metal frame, you'll need to pull the cable through the frame.

    When I was removing the cable, I pulled the cable through from the connector end. It wasn't until after I pulled the cable through, that I find out I could have pulled it through from the other side.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • IR projector removed

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • IR projector

    The Kinect's IR projector, rubber gasket, and senor cable. Had I removed the rubber gasket, I could have pulled the able through the frame from this end.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Camera screws

    The Kinect's two cameras are held to the metal frame with six Torx T6 screws.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Cameras

    The Kinect's two cameras are held together with a one-piece rubber gasket.

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Cameras

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    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Empty metal frame

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  • Disassembling the base

    A rubber pad is attached to the bottom of the base and hides several Phillips #0 screws.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the base's top cover

    With the Phillips #0 screws removed, you can lift the top cover away from the Kinect's base.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Removing the motor and gear assembly

    The motor and gear assembly should come right out of the base's bottom cover.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Motor and gear assembly

    A metal brace holds the post to the motor and gear assembly. The brace is held in place with four Phillips #0 screws.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Opening the motor and gear assembly

    Removing the three large Phillips screws on the bottom of the motor and gear assembly will let open the assembly.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Inside the motor and gear assembly

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

  • Completely disassembled

    The Microsoft Kinect was remarkably easy to disassemble. It has a lot of specialized components, but non are soldered in place. If you can get replacement parts, it's definitely a device the average tech can repair.

    Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

    Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Cracking Open the Microsoft Kinect

The Microsoft Kinect is an Xbox 360 peripheral that allows a "controller-free gaming and entertainment experience." Packed with cameras, microphones, an IR projector, and more, the Kinect is Microsoft's answer to the Nintendo Wii remote and the Sony Playstation Move controller.

Follow along as I crack open the Kinect for a look at the hardware inside.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic

Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Related Topics:

After Hours Innovation Hardware Tech & Work

By Bill Detwiler

Bill Detwiler is Editor in Chief of TechRepublic and the host of Cracking Open, CNET and TechRepublic's popular online show. Prior to joining TechRepublic in 2000, Bill was an IT manager, database administrator, and desktop support specialist in the ...

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