Opening the Verizon iPhone 4 box

ntOpening the box, we find the Verizon iPhone 4.

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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 Box contents

ntAs with the original iPhone 4, inside the Verizon iPhone 4’s box are the device, headphones, AC power adapter, 30-pin connector cable, and product documentation.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon and AT&T iPhone 4s - Front

ntThe Verizon iPhone 4 is on the left and the AT&T iPhone 4 is on the right. From the front, I can’t tell the difference. Can you?
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon and AT&T iPhone 4s - Back

ntFrom the back, you can tell the Verizon iPhone 4 (left) from the AT&T iPhone 4 (right) by looking at the model number–A1349 for the Verizon device and A1322 for the AT&T phone.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon and AT&T iPhone 4s - Left side

ntLooking at the left edges of each device, we can see another external difference–the antenna design. The iPhone 4’s metal frame also serves as the phone’s antenna. The Verizon iPhone 4 (top) has a slightly different antenna configuration. Notice the black space to the right of the Verizon device’s vibrate toggle switch.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon and AT&T iPhone 4s - Right side

ntLooking at the right edge of each phone, you’ll also notice the absense of a SIM card slot on the Verizon iPhone 4 (top).
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon and AT&T iPhone 4s - Top

ntNow that we’ve looked at the external differences, let’s get down to cracking the Verizon iPhone 4 open.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Sliding up the back cover

ntOnce the external case screws are removed, you can slide the back cover up and lift it away from the case.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Back cover screws tabs

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 internal layout

AT&T iPhone 4 - Inside

ntFor comparison, here’s a photo of the AT&T iPhone 4 from our, “Cracking Open the Apple iPhone 4,” gallery.

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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Internal - Top

ntAt the top of the Verizon iPhone 4, there is a black metal shield covering part of the main PCB and several connectors. Five screws hold the shield in place. As the next phone shows, there’s a similar shield on the AT&T version of the iPhone 4, but it has a different shape.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

AT&T iPhone 4 - Internal top

ntHere’s the upper-PCB shield on the AT&T iPhone 4. Notice that it has a very different shape than the shield on the Verizon version.

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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Internal - Bottom

ntAt the bottom of the iPhone 4 are the speaker assembly, redesigned vibration motor, and the 30-pin connector.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

ntThe first step in dissecting the Verison iPhone 4 is removing the battery. The battery connector is held in place with a single Phillips #00 screw.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing the battery

ntWith the battery disconnected, you can lift it away from the Verizon iPhone 4’s metal frame. A small bit of adhesive holds the battery to the frame, but you should be able to pull the battery away without damaging it or the frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

ntWith the battery removed, we’ll turn our attention to the metal shield that covers the top of the main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Main PCB metal shield removed

ntAs on the AT&T iPhone 4, the metal shield on the main PCB covers several connectors.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing the main PCB connectors

ntUsing a thin metal or plastic blade, you can disconnect the connectors.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

More connectors

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Camera - Rear

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing more internal screws

ntA black metal cover is mounted over the connector for a large ribbon cable that runs along the main PCB. Two screws hold the cover in place. We’ll need to remove both.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Metal cover removed

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Popping loose the internal ribbon cable

ntOnce the cover is removed, you can pop loose the connector.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Dislodging the ribbon cable

ntThe ribbon cable is attached to one of the main PCB’s metal shields with a small bit of adhesive.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing the speaker assembly screw

ntNext, we’ll remove the Phillips #00 screw that holds the speaker assembly to the frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Remvoing the metal ground

ntBefore we can remove the speaker assembly, we need to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable that is attached to it. To disconnect the antenna from the main PCB, you’ll need to remove a thin metal piece, which acts as a ground when the back cover is in place. The metal ground is held in place with a single Phillips #00 screw.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Disconnecting the Wi-Fi antenna cable

ntWith the metal ground removed, you can disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna wire from the main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Speaker assembly - Top

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Speaker assembly - Bottom

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 Wi-Fi Antenna

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Ready to remove the Verizon iPhone 4 main PCB

ntWith the speaker assembly removed, we are ready to remove the Verizon iPhone 4’s main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing Verizon iPhone 4 main PCB screws

ntSeveral Phillips #00 screws hold the Verizon iPhone 4’s main PCB to the metal frame beneath.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Disconnecting the last few connectors

ntBefore we can remove the main PCB from the Verizon iPhone 4, we need to make sure all the connectors have been disconnected.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing the Verizon iPhone 4 main PCB

ntWith all the screws removed and connectors decoupled, you can left the main PCB away from the Verizon iPhone 4’s metal frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 with main PCB removed

ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 main PCB - Top

ntTwo metal shields cover the chips on the top of the Verizon iPhone 4’s main PCB. We’ll need to remove them to see the chips underneath.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 main PCB - Bottom

ntSeveral metal shields also cover the chips on the underside of the Verizon iPhone 4’s main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 main PCB - Top with shields removed

ntAfter removing the two metal shields from the main PCB, we can see several of the chips underneath. Including the large A4 processor.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

AT&T iPhone 4 main PCB - Front

ntThis photo shows the top of the AT&T iPhone 4’s main PCB. Although the general shape and some of the chips are the same, it’s a completely different boarb from the Verizon iPhone.

Verizon iPhone 4 main PCB - Bottom with shields removed

ntAfter removing the metal sheild from the underside of the main PCB, we can see a few of the chips beneath. One of the metal shields is soldered to the board, and I left it in place. I want to reassemble this phone in working condition.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

AT&T iPhone 4 main PCB - Back

ntThis photo shows the back of the AT&T iPhone 4’s main PCB.

Qualcomm MDM6600

ntQualcomm MDM6600
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Toshiba Y890A111222KA

ntToshiba Y890A111222KA
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Black shield hides unknown chip

ntI’m unsure what’s beneath this black shield. I feared removing it would damage the components underneath.

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ntAccording the guys and gals over at iFixit, it’s likely that the chip under this shield provide the Verizon iPhone 4’s Wi-Fi and Bluetooth functionality.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Apple A4 Processor

ntApple A4 Processor
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Apple branded 338S0589 B0 chip

ntApple branded 338S0589 B0 chip
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Apple branded 338S0876-A5

ntApple branded 338S0876-A5
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Qualcomm PM8028

ntQualcomm PM8028
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Skyworks (SKY77711-4 and SKY77710-4) Power amplifiers

ntSkyworks (SKY77711-4 and SKY77710-4) Power amplifiers
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Avago A2F1045 136574

ntAvago A2F1045 136574
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Chip with markings 2050 33DH YBU DO

ntChip with markings 2050 33DH YBU DO
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Chips with marking AGD8 2050 Y9XB6

ntChips with marking AGD8 2050 Y9XB6
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Ready to remove the display assembly

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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing the display assembly screws

ntSeveral Phillips #00 screws along the side of the metal frame hold the mounting brackets for the display assembly in place. You just need to loosen, not remove, these screws.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Display assembly screw hidden behind vibration motor

ntOne of the side screws for the display assembly is located behind the redesigned vibration motor. The motor is attached to the metal frame with very sticky adhesive. I decided not to completely remove the motor, but instead to gently push it to the side–just enough to reach the screw.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing the screw behind the vibration motor

ntI was able to move the vibration motor just enough to reach the screw behind it.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Display assembly corner screws

ntThere’s one screw in each corner of the display assembly.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Removing the display assembly

ntWith all the screws removed, you can lift the display assembly away from the metal frame. A small patch of adhesive located near the headphone jack will give you a bit of resistence, but isn’t too difficult to work through.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Display assembly and metal frame

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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Display assembly - Back

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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler

Verizon iPhone 4 completely disassembled

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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler