Apple iPad 2 Teardown
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Apple iPad 2 Teardown
ntWith the release of the 2nd generation iPad, Apple hopes to remain king of the tablet/slate PC market. The iPad 2 is thinner, lighter, and faster than the original Apple iPad. It also has front- and rear-facing cameras. Inside the iPad 2 are chips from Samsung, Texas Instruments, Broadcom, and more. Follow along as I crack open the Apple iPad 2 in this TR Dojo Teardown gallery.
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ntAnd if you’re thinking about buying on of the new iPads, check out Jason Hiner’s article, “Apple iPad 2: Who should buy and who should pass.”
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Box
ntIn the US, the Apple iPad 2 is available in three storage sizes (16GB, 32GB, 64GB), two colors (black and white), and in three wireless configurations (Wi-Fi only, Wi-Fi + AT&T 3G, or Wi-Fi + Verizon 3G). We purchased this white, 16GB Wi-Fi only model at Target for $499 plus sales tax.
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ntFor a complete breakdown of prices by model, check out the Select your iPad page on Apple’s online store.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Still in the box
ntThe iPad 2has the following technical specifications:
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- nt
- ntt1 GHz Apple A5 dual-core CPU
- ntt16, 32, or 64 GB internal storage
- nttRear-facing camera (HD 720p up to 30 fps)
- nttFront-facing web cam (VGA up to 30 frames per second)
- ntt9.7-inch (diagonal) LED-backlit Multi-Touch display (1024×768 resolution at 132 pixels per inch)
- nttWi-Fi and 3G connectivity (on 3G models)
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Box contents
ntUnder the iPad 2 are the dock connector to USB cable, 10W USB power adapter, and product documentation.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2 and iPad 3G side by side
ntHere’s the iPad 2 (left) next to the original iPad 3G (right). The Apple iPad 2 weighs 1.35 lbs. (compared to the original iPad 3G’s 1.6 lbs.) and measures 9.5 x 7.31 x 0.34 inches (compared to the original iPad’s 9.56 x 7.47 x 0.5 inches).
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2 and iPad 3G height comparison
ntLooking at both the iPad 2 (left) and iPad 3G (right) from this angle, you can see the significant difference in height between the two tablets. The newer tablet also has a beveled edge, which makes the iPad 2 feel even thinner than it actually is.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2 30-pin dock connector and speaker grill
ntAlong the bottom of the iPad 2 are the 30-pin dock connector and speaker grill. The iPad 2’s model number is A1395.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Rear-facing camera and buttons
ntAlong the top edge of the iPad 2 are the On/off and Sleep/wake button, rear-facing camera, Silent/Screen rotation lock button, and volume up/down button. The 3.5mm headphone jack is also located along the top edge.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front-facing camera and ambient light sensor
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s front-facing camera and ambient light sensor are located along the top of the front panel.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Home button
ntThe iPad 2’s Home button is located at the bottom of the front panel in the center.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Heating the front panel adhesive
ntApple used metal clips to hold the original iPad and iPad 3G’s front panel in place. On the iPad 2, Apple abbandoned the clips for extermely strong adhesive. To remove the front glass panel, I first heated the edges with a hair dryer.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Prying loose the front panel
ntWhile heating the edges of the iPad 2’s front panel, I used several plastic and metal tools to gently pry the panel away from the frame. This was by far the longest part of the teardown. It took at least an hour to remove the front panel. I was able to remove the panel without cracking the glass, but it was a very slow process.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front panel removed
ntThe front panel is connected to the rest of the iPad 2 with a thin ribbon cable. I’ll need to disconnect the ribbon cable before separating the two halves of the iPad 2.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front panel ribbon cable
ntThis photo shows the ribbon cable that connects the front panel’s digitizer to the iPad 2’s main system board.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Removing the LCD screws
ntBefore disconnecting the front panel’s ribbon cable, I’ll need to remove the LCD, which covers the connector and most of the iPad 2’s internal components. Luckily, Apple uses standard Phillps #00 screws inside the iPad 2’s case.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Lifting the LCD away from the frame
ntAfter removing the four Phillips #00 screws that hold the iPad 2’s LCD in place, I was able to lift it up from the frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: LCD cable
ntThe LCD is connected to the iPad 2’s main PCB with a single cable. I’ll need to disconnect the cable before completely removing the LCD.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Disconnecting the LCD cable
ntThe LCD’s ribbon cable connector has a small handle that you can hold when detaching the cable from the iPad 2’s main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: LCD completely removed
ntWith the LCD cable detached, you can completely remove the Apple iPad 2’s LCD from the frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: LCD front
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s 9.7-inch (diagonal) LED-backlit LCD delivers a 1024×768 resolution at 132 pixels per inch.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Back
ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: LCD labels
ntThe labels on the back of the Apple iPad 2’s LCD have the following markings:
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nt6091L-1402A
nt110226 R87
ntQ2112S 1F1 87RH1402A6
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ntLP 097X02-SLN1
ntLGDNJ
nt097A2N4303HX4 322A
ntC8CA99650B9DD31A3
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: With LCD removed
Apple iPad 2: Disconnecting the front panel ribbon cable
ntThe ribbon cable for the front panel’s digitizer is attached to the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB via two connectors. The cable is also attached to one of the metal EMI shields on the main PCB with adhesive. I was able to gently peel the cable away from the shield. And after lifting the catch on both connectors, I detached the cable.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Peeling the front panel cable away from the frame
ntThe front panel’s cable is also attached to the Apple iPad 2’s frame with adhesive. Using a plastic spudger, I was able to detach the cable from the frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front panel ribbon cable disconnected
ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front panel remove
ntThe iPad 2’s front panel is significantly thinner than the one used on the original iPad. I also seems to be more flexible. According to Apple’s website, the glass has a “fingerprint-resistant oleophobic coating”. I’m not sure about resisting finger prints, but when placed front-side down the panel slid all over the table in our photo studio.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front panel home button
ntThe Home button is attached to the Apple iPad 2’s front panel two Phillips #00 screws and a small bracket.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front panel holes for camera and ambient light sensor
ntThese two clear spots are for the Apple iPad 2’s front-facing camera and ambient light sensor.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front panel and LCD removed
ntWith the LCD and front panel completely removed, we get our first unobstructed view inside the Apple iPad 2.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Removing the Wi-Fi antenna screws
ntBefore removing the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB, I’m going to remove the Wi-Fi antenna, which is attached to the frame with two Phillips #00 screws.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Peeling loose the Home button ribbon cable
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s Wi-Fi antenna wire run under the ribbon cable for the Home button. Unfortunately, this ribbon cable is also glued to one of the EMI shields on the main PCB and the frame. Using a thin metal blade, I peeled the Home button’s ribbon cable away from the EMI shield.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Detaching the Home button ribbon cable
ntAfter peeling the Home button ribbon cable away from the EMI shield, I popped loose its connector from the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Speaker wire
ntUnder the Home button’s ribbon cable, there’s also a connector for a wire that goes to the Apple iPad 2’s speaker.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Peeling loose the lower cables
ntThe Home button ribbon cable, speaker wire, and Wi-Fi antenna wire are all glued to the Apple iPad 2’s frame. I was able to gently peel them all loose.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Wi-Fi antenna removed from frame
ntFinally, the Wi-Fi antenna comes free from the Apple iPad 2’s frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Disconnecting the rear-facing camera and nearby buttons cable
ntAfter disconnecting the lower cables and peeling free the Wi-Fi antenna wire, I turned my attention to the connector for the the Apple iPad 2’s rear-facing camera, volume up/down button, on/off sleep/wake button, and silent/screen rotation lock switch. Like the LCD connector, this one has a handle with which you can pull it loose from the main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Rear-facing camera and nearby buttons cable disconnected
ntWith the cable for the rear-facing camera and nearby buttons disconnected, I’ll next disconnect the cable for the Apple iPad 2’s front-facing camera.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front-facing camera ribbon cable disconnected
ntThe ribbon cable for the Apple iPad 2’s front-facing camera is glued to the frame and attached to the main PCB with a gated connected. I lifted the catch up, but did pull the cable out of the connector. I’ll let is slip out when I remove the main PCB from the frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Removing the main PCB screws
ntWith all the cable disconnected, I removed the four Phillips #00 screws that hold the Apple iPad’s main PCB to the frame.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Removing the main PCB
ntWith the screws removed and all the cable disconnected, I lifted the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB away from the metal frame. The Wi-Fi antenna is still connected to the board.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Main PCB and frame
ntI left the Wi-Fi antenna connected to the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Battery and other components glued to the frame
ntBefore turning our attention to the main PCB, let’s look at the components still attached to the Apple iPad 2’s metal frame.
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ntAfter careful consideration, I decided to leave them in place. I want to reassemble this iPad 2 in working order. As nearly all the remaining components or their ribbon cables are glued to the frame, I feared removing them might cause damage.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: 3.8V 25 Whr Li-Ion Polymer battery
ntThe Apple iPad 2 has a 3.8V 25 Whr Li-Ion Polymer battery.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Front-facing camera
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s front-facing camera can record VGA video at up to 30 fps and shoot VGA-quality stills. Above the camera is the ambient light sensor.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Headphone jack
ntIn the Apple iPad 2’s upper-left corner is the 3.5mm stereo headphone jack.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Rear-facing camera and nearby buttons
ntIn the Apple iPad 2’s upper-right corner, are the power on/off sleep/wake button, and silent screen rotation lock switch, and rear-facing camera.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Volume up/down button
ntJust below the silent/screen rotation lock switch is the Apple iPad 2’s volume up/down button.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Main PCB with Wi-Fi cable attached - Top
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s main PCB is significantly longer than the main board on the original iPad 3G.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Apple iPad 2: Main PCB with Wi-Fi cable attached - Bottom
ntThe connector for the Apple iPad 2’s Wi-Fi antenna is access through the underside of the main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Main PCB and Wi-Fi antenna (detached)
ntI detached the Apple iPad 2’s Wi-Fi antenna wire from the main PCB with thin metal blade.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Main PCB - Bottom
ntWith the Wi-Fi antenna removed, let’s take a closer look at the underside of the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Battery contacts
ntThe Apple iPad 2 battery connects to the main PCB via these contacts.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Wireless antenna connectors
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s wireless card has two contacts. Only one was being used for Wi-Fi antenna.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Main PCB markings
ntSome of the markings on the Apple iPad 2’s main system board are obscured by a black sticker that covers most of the board’s underside.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Main PCB - Top with EMI shields
ntBefore we can see the chips on the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB, we’ll need to remove the EMI shields from the top of the board.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Main PCB - Top with EMI shields removed
ntWith the EMI shields removed, we can see the chips mounted to Apple iPad 2’s main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: 1GHz dual-core Apple A5 CPU
Apple iPad 2: Samsung 16GB NAND Flash chip
ntOur Apple iPad 2 has a 16GB Samsung NAND Flash chip (K9HDG08U5A-LCB0).
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Apple branded chip (343S0542-A2)
ntApple branded chip with markings 343S0542-A2 11038HCG.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: N33UUN0Z U1104 A1
ntSome of the markings on thi chip are too faint to read, but these are visible N33UUN0Z U1104 A1.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Chip with no markings
ntThis chips has no markings.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Broadcom BCM5973KFBGH
ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Texas Instruments 11AD8CT G1
ntSome of the markings on this Texas Instruments chip are obscured by the metal bracket for one of the EMI sheilds.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: CM5974 CKFBGH E1102 P! 118328 N3
ntChip with markings: CM5974 CKFBGH E1102 P! 118328 N3
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Two Fairchild Semiconductor chips
ntThe Apple iPad 2 had two chips from Fairchild Semiconductor with the following markings:
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ntPB0AH
ntFDMC
nt6676BZ
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ntPB1AU
ntFDMC
nt6683
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Wireless card still attached to main PCB
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s wireless card is mounted to the top of main PCB.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Wireless card removed
ntI removed the wireless card from the Apple iPad 2’s main PCB using a thin metal blade. I’ll be interested to see if the iPad 2 3G version has a different wireless card. I assume it will.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Wireless card with Broadcom BCM4329
ntThe Apple iPad 2’s wireless card has a Broadcom BCM4329 1HKUBC “low-power 802.11n with Bluetooth 2.1 + EDR and FM transceiver” chip.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
Apple iPad 2: Disassembled
ntThe Apple iPad 2 was more difficult to crack open than the original iPad or iPad 3G. Its front panel, battery, main PCB, and many of the ribbon cables inside are glued to the metal frame. In fact, the iPad 2 is constructed more like an iPod Touch than the other tablets I’ve cracked open. Cracking open the Motorola XOOM a snap compared to the iPad 2.
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ntPhoto by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
ntCaption by: Bill Detwiler
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